[TR] TR3 steering column

[Randall]

> Here is the situation...  The connector for the split 
> steering column is
> 'stuck'.   I tried everything I could think of to get it 
> separated/removed
> from the inner column. 

You've removed the bolts entirely, of course.  Have you tried driving a
screwdriver blade into the slot (through where the bolt was) to spread the
collar a bit more?  Soaked in PBB?  Tapped (more or less gently) with a BFH
on the bolt 'ears'?

Maybe it's time to drop the apron and remove the steering box and column as
a unit (like those of us with earlier cars have to do).  I'd be reluctant to
pound very hard against the bearings, worm and peg inside the steering box.

> There is one solid metal bushing still on the inner 
> column - not being able to slide it over the steering wheel end.
> (this was all done in about 2001)

I'm afraid you lost me there.  Maybe it's just been too long, but I don't
recall any metal bushing except for the one inside the assembly at the
bottom (which was split at least on my car).  Unless maybe the later split
columns used a bushing inside the felt ring?  That area was quite a bit
larger as I recall, so using a sleeve there would probably reduce cost.  But
I don't remember any signs it would come apart there, and I can't seem to
find one at the moment to look at.

> The O-Rings as I understand it are placed so that they split the inner
> column into thirds.

Although not listed that way in the catalogs, it's my belief that those were
deleted for the split column.  At any rate, it doesn't seem like they could
do anything with the shaft supported so close to either side.  If you are
hitting bumps hard enough to bend those tubes enough to touch, then you've
got a lot worse problems than some rattling from the steering column!  I
didn't even find any inside TS13571L, so they may have been deleted much
earlier.

> Finally, the parts manual calls for two felt pieces at the 
> top end but I can only see how one would fit between the 
> indent I mentioned and the top of the column.

Me too.  The drawing only shows one, and the workshop manual refers to it as
singular, so I think that might be a misprint in the parts book.  The other
possibility is that the original felt was much smaller.  The replacement I
got was too thick anyway, I eventually machined a Delrin bushing instead.

> (Thoughts about urethane TRF#209423/u?

Can't see the advantage myself.  On a TR3A, those joints take no side force
at all (except from vibration) and the original nylon seemed to hold up just
fine.  I think the urethane version may be more appropriate for later cars
with flexible joints in the column (and even then Delrin seems like a better
choice to me).

> One other thought.  I am not there yet, but should the 
> control head be attached and wires fed through the stator 
> tube before inserting into the column - or after?

For sure get the column assembled and adjusted first.  Everything has to get
lined up "just so" to get it to turn freely.  (Probably best to complete
this phase with the Pitman arm disconnected so you can more easily feel any
drag.)

As far as feeding the wires through the stator tube though, I'd say it's
pretty much a wash. When I'm R&R'ing the same components, I like to leave
the wire in the tube just because it saves having to fish a pulling wire
through the tube and fasten it to the electrical wires.  But if you have to
do that anyway, the extra ease of fishing the wires with the tube off the
car just about balances the extra hassle of having to support the wires and
control head while installing the tube, IMO.

-- Randall