[TR] Overheatng

Geo Hahn ahwahneetr at gmail.com
Fri Aug 24 16:25:09 MDT 2012


One simple test is to remove the belt altogether and briefly run the engine
-- if the noise is gone that would narrow the search down to water pump,
alternator or belt.

A suspect belt can sometimes be diagnosed by spraying a bit of WD40 on it
while the engine is running.  If that immediately elminates the squeal then
it is the belt.  The WD40 is not a fix, just for diagnosis.

I have quieted a noisy belt by (very carefully) hold a sanding block
against the sides of the Vee as the engine runs.  This scuffs the belt a
bit and breaks up the glaze if that is what is cauing the noise.

Geo

On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 2:41 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> History.  Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild.  When I
> started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds
> that then went way.  I figured it for a dry water pump.
>
> Squealing has returned.  Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or
> a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator.  Tried the
> stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump.  Squeal
> persisted.  Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then
> accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped
> abruptly.  What was THAT all about??
>
> So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt
> pulley on it, and reinstalled.  Same squeal as before.
>
> But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot
> weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the
> action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not
> going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage?
>
> Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything.
>
> Question:  If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would
> make much different noises than a belt squeal, right?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
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