[TR] Removing Head Studs

Brian Jones tr4zest at gmail.com
Wed Dec 23 16:55:18 MST 2009


If it were me, I'd leave it and replace the rest.

Brian
TR4 CT14455L (now OD)

On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 6:15 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> On Wednesday 23 December 2009 12:36:29 pm Roger Wilson wrote:
> > I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP studs. A
> > stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to
> replace
> > them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-handed
> > cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
> >
> > I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came out
> >  using an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking
> with
> >  PB Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud with
> a
> >  propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe wrench
> and
> >  PB Blaster.
> >
> > I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on the
> > manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the stud
> >  and using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the
> >  block. I am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace
> the
> >  rest.
> >
> > Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
> >
> > Roger Wilson
> > '60 TR3
> >
> >
> Roger,
>
> Here is a trick I learned on this list.
>
> Double nut the stud and heat the block if you can as hot as you dare.
>
> Then apply wax to the stud and let it sit for a few minutes. Then try to
> cool
> the block with ice.
>
> Using a impact wrench on low torque and gradually increasing torque, try a
> few
> short blasts.
>
> It has always worked for me in the past.
>
> I have also welded nuts in the past and that works great if the double nut
> slips.
>
>
>
> Bob
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