[TR] Removing Head Studs

[Bob]

On Wednesday 23 December 2009 12:36:29 pm Roger Wilson wrote:
> I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP studs. A
> stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to replace
> them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-handed
> cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
> 
> I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came out
>  using an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking with
>  PB Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud with a
>  propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe wrench and
>  PB Blaster.
> 
> I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on the
> manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the stud
>  and using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the
>  block. I am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace the
>  rest.
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
> 
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
> 
> 
Roger,

Here is a trick I learned on this list.

Double nut the stud and heat the block if you can as hot as you dare.

Then apply wax to the stud and let it sit for a few minutes. Then try to cool 
the block with ice.

Using a impact wrench on low torque and gradually increasing torque, try a few 
short blasts. 

It has always worked for me in the past.

I have also welded nuts in the past and that works great if the double nut 
slips.



Bob