[TR] floorpan outer seams

[dorpaul]

As you may have figured out, (especially in regards to doing some of the
bodywork) I am not as concerned about doing things 'the right way'.  Mostly
because of cost and personal satisfaction in 'manually doing the work'
(including alot of experimenting around.)  One of the 'costs' of doing it this
way is the possibility of 'partly-done-things' and 'do-overs'.  I am sure many
can relate.

I installed new floorpans in my TR3 several years ago, and I believe I allowed
the floorpan's flange to remain 'innermost' while the attached panels were
'outermost'.  I 'tackwelded' & 'seamwelded' the floorpans in place.  Of
course, the outermost seam was not dealt with at that time, however, it is now
time to do something about these overlapping panel edges.  I guess I should do
something completely around both floorpans.
    To start off with, for example, the overlap caused by the rear lip (or
flange) of the floorpan but located OUTSIDE the car and just ahead of each
rear tire.  This floorpan vertical flange is overlapped an inch or so with the
vertical 'heelboard' portion of the rear shelf.  The question is: WHAT SHOULD
I DO TO MAKE THIS SEAM WATERTIGHT as I am a bad welder and this overlap is
somewhat hard to get to even with the rear wing and rear tire removed.   Keep
in mind that I don't expect any stress to be exerted on this 'OUTERMOST' seam
because it's already been welded and sealed from inside the car's cabin.  I am
now dealing with the portion exposed under the car and only visible to the
road underneath (once the tire and rearwing are reinstalled.)
    I have thought about leaving this overlapping area of the two panels
exposed to the elements and therefore do nothing to them.  However, it seems
this seam area needs some protection.  I have thought about squeezing it full
of 3M Seam Sealer which drys fairly hard, but is also suppose to remain
'stretchy'.   I know it's good stuff, but, I have trouble thinking it will
last 25 or more years.
    Another idea is to cover the seam area with a small strip of ('L-shaped'
like angle iron) vinyl siding which might could be glued or 3M Seam Sealer-ed
into place.  Yet another idea is to attach a rubber-like matting over this
seam.  This would prohibit water-spray, however, it might not be as fast
drying when this area gets wet.
    I am looking forward to partly doing this area over and I need help.
Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

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