[TR] TR3 wheel bearing snuffness

[dorpaul]

 I am installing new felt seals along with the new front wheel bearings on my
'60  TR3.  Unfortunately, getting the bearings off the stub axle (after a
trial fit) required prying.  It must not have been careful enough, because it
got the outer ring of the wheel bearing slightly out of round (I proably can
make it round again since it's only about 1/16th" off.  I hope it's
permissable?  (I know it's technically my car...)
  I've also followed the workshop manual's method for tightening the wheel
bearings which is essentially to do a trial fitting with all parts of the
front wheel EXCEPT the felt seal and retainer and 'hand tighten' the castle
nut, slacken till alignment with cotter pin for castle nut, mark this spot by
drift on stub axle (I used the 'count-the-threads-showing-method' to replicate
this position).  On the second time around I included the new felt seals and
retainer (felt side first, retainer out) soaked in oil and squeezed out of
felt.
  The alarming thing about tightening it up was that the sides were different.
On the final attempt for one front wheel (spinning of wheel during tightening
was always done) required a good deal more torque (guessed) in order to reach
the pre-felt/retainer-hand-tightening position of castle nut.  And, of course,
this made the wheel stop so that the wheel ceased spinning.
 It was also disconcerting that on one of the wheels, an extra washer was
required prior to the castle nut so that the slots in the castle nut engaged
the cotter pin.  Also, the manual says .003-.005" of end float 'looseness'
should result from 'slackening' the first attempt on the castle nut.  I think
I achieved this measurement taken between castle nut and washer.
    I hope this is understandable... ask me if it's not.

Thanks, Paul Dorsey



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