[TR] TR3 wheel bearing snuffness

[Randall]

> Unfortunately, getting the 
> bearings off the stub axle (after a trial fit) required 
> prying.

Paul, I find that worrisome right there.  The inner races should be a light
push fit on the axle; if it's that tight then there was grit trapped under
the bearing or the axle is damaged, etc.

>  It must not have been careful enough, because it got 
> the outer ring of the wheel bearing slightly out of round (I 
> proably can make it round again since it's only about 1/16th" 
> off.

I assume you are talking about the metal cage that spaces the rollers apart.
A small amount of distortion won't hurt, but it must not drag on the races
and the rollers must still be free to turn easily.  As it can be difficult
to judge those conditions, my suggestion would be to replace it.

But if you are talking about the outer race (hardened surface that the
rollers bear against), then any damage whatsoever, even a visible scuff,
demands it be replaced.  It is an extremely precise surface and any
deviation at all will lead to rapid destruction in operation.  The results
can be quite unpleasant.

>   The alarming thing about tightening it up was that the 
> sides were different.

This is exactly the reason for the rather odd procedure; the seals are
highly variable.

> And, of course, this made the wheel stop so that the wheel 
> ceased spinning.

Not spinning freely is OK.  But you should still be able to turn it by hand.
If not, I suggest you've made a mistake.

>  It was also disconcerting that on one of the wheels, an 
> extra washer was required prior to the castle nut so that the 
> slots in the castle nut engaged the cotter pin.

That also sounds like a problem.  Is it possible you've got the wrong
bearings, or the stub axle is not properly assembled to the vertical link ?
These are safety-critical components, so it's important it be right.

>  Also, the 
> manual says .003-.005" of end float 'looseness'
> should result from 'slackening' the first attempt on the 
> castle nut.  I think I achieved this measurement taken 
> between castle nut and washer.

It's very difficult to measure this directly, as normally the weight of the
hub will push the bearing out against the washer.  But if you've followed
the procedure in the book (which as I recall says to back off at least 1
full flat before inserting the pin), then the clearance should be adequate.

Randall