[Tigers] Overheating - May 3 test

Tue May 8 12:37:49 MDT 2018

Sorry if this is late, it ended up in spam. I'd add one thing to Joel's
test if he hasn't tried it, a Flex Fan. Mine's a metal bladed fan (there
are others, I have an older fiberglass fan...). It helped on my Mark 2.
Summit carries it.

Griffin had a "kit" a few years ago with the radiator and a puller fan on
the engine side of the radiator. I discussed this with their engineer,
frankly don't see how it can fit in the cramped Tiger engine compartment.
If anyone's used the kit, please let the list know what you found...
Anyhow, I added the pusher fan in front of the radiator; at idle the fan
maintains 180 degrees temp at idle in the Florida sun. The car doesn't get
driven much, so I can't comment on how it behaves in rush hour traffic. The
car has full length headers.

I'm going to look into the "Sway Bar Air Dam" Tom Witt suggested. Also,
when I get to it I'll try to install Denis Mercier's lower fan shroud.

Tom
'67 Mark 2

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 6:41 PM, Jeffery Randall via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> HEAD GASKET
>
> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers <
> tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Still trying one thing at a time.
>>
>> Parts used:
>> Carb is a Holly 4160C part number 0-80457S, main jet .064 with RED
>> accelerator pump cam
>> Distributor AI65 Petronix for Ford dual point distributor with VAC advance
>> AI58PT Petronix coil
>> SS - AI51T Tiger distributor cap for correct look
>> MSD 6AL mounted in trunk
>> Motorcraft spark plugs BSF42C
>> SS - TM32 water pump - aluminum type
>> Custom LAT hood with large hood scope in front of radiator
>> Oversize recored cooper/brass radiator - about 5 inches taller than stock
>> No expansion tank
>> Custom made fan shroud
>> Fan 14" 6 blade
>> Fan spacer places fan 1- 3/8" from radiator
>> Fan sits 1/2" INSIDE from back of shroud
>> 2 - 8" electric fans - not used on this test - manual off/on switch
>>
>> Test:
>> 160 degree thermostat starts to open on stove at 165, fully open at 175 -
>> 1/8" hole drilled
>> Outside temp about 65 degrees
>> Cold car - jack up front of car to top of floor jack
>> 13 pound radiator cap
>> Pull intake manfold to heater valve hose into bucket to bleed any air
>> Reattached heater valve hose - about 1 pint allowed out of hose
>> Remember both heater valve hoses are plugged due to 3 leaking heater
>> valves
>> Top up radiator with water.
>> Petronix distributor is pulling too much vac when attached so the vac
>> line at distributor was removed and plugged with a golf tee
>>
>> Timing with vac advance line pulled and plugged is
>> 14 degrees at idle 950 rpm's
>> 25 at 1500
>> 27 at 2000
>> 29 at 2500
>> 30 at 3000
>> Consensus is: this a little slow but would not cause overheating.
>> Different opinions from the knowledge folks on when, how fast and max
>> with vac adv on and vac adv off or not use vac adv distributors at all.
>>
>> Timing with vac advance attached is:
>> 16 degrees at idle 950 rpm's
>> 27 at 1500
>> forgot to record at 2000
>> 53 at 2500
>> 57 at 3000
>> This is way too much based on discussion - so for this test and future -
>> vac adv is removed and plugged
>>
>> Closed hood and went for a drive at about 35-40 MPH - still in
>> neighborhood - highway about 3.5 miles away - too chicken to get too far
>> from house.  Maintained 3000 rpms in second or third.
>>
>> Temperature stays at about 190 degrees while moving starting out
>> Stop for less than 30 seconds - temperature goes up to 200
>> Drive at speed again temperature goes down about 2 degrees
>> Stop before going back into garage for less than 30 seconds - temp goes
>> up to 210
>> Shut off car
>>
>> Some coolant out of overflow tube (after heat soak kicks at about 225),
>> none from drive as no coolant trail down driveway and into garage and
>> probably leaking from thermostat since I pulled and tested.
>>
>> Radiator temperatures with infared gun immediately after shutting off
>> engine.
>> Upper radiator tank:
>> Drivers side - 211 degrees
>> Middle - 213 degrees
>> Passenger side 207 degrees
>>
>> Radiator LOWER as shot from front around badge bar:
>> Drivers side - 198 degrees
>> Middle - 196 degrees
>> Passenger side 197 degrees
>>
>> Radiator MIDDLE as shot from front around badge bar:
>> Drivers side - 181 degrees
>> Middle - 204 degrees
>> Passenger side 200 degrees
>>
>> Header temperatures:
>> Passenger side number 1:  359
>> Number 2: 327
>> Number 3: 305
>> Number 4: 312
>>
>> Drivers side number 5:  275
>> Number 6: 297
>> Number 7: 266
>> Number 8: 281
>>
>> So with tested 160 degree thermostat with 1/8" hole and air out of
>> system, I believe
>> and vac adj hose removed and plugged, the same result of heating up 10
>> degrees with each 30 second stop still in play.
>>
>> So air flow or water flow or timing(not perfect, would have to change
>> weights in distributor and determine vac adv issue) or air fuel mixture
>> (change primary jets to .066 and move to PINK pump cam at 30CC)
>>
>> Some school of thought:  fix or replace 200 mile distributor and make air
>> flow changes changes first.
>> Change out water pump - make and model
>> Change out radiator to Griffin or Fluidyne stock style with larger
>> surface space since I have room based on custom LAT option hood.  Then go
>> with shroud and electric fan on engine side removing existing mechanical
>> fan or keep existing mechanical fan and not use electric fan.
>>
>> What to do with custom shroud if keep the existing mechanical fan.
>>
>> Either way regarding fans, I would need an original expansion tank to go
>> with a possible new radiator.
>>
>> Your ideas and thoughts are always appreciated.
>>
>> My head hurts and I am going large mouth bass fishing and beers before
>> happy hour.
>>
>> Sincerely
>>
>> Joel Martin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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