[Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring

[Bill Rabel]

The bolts hold the collar on the central shaft. Once the collar is loose, you are restraining it with the rod that is inserted in the collar. The force that the springs apply to the central shaft (when the bolts are tight) counteracts the weight of the door.

> On Oct 15, 2019, at 8:51 AM, Scott Hall <scott.hall.personal at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel <brabel at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Scott -
>> 
>> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12” - 18” long. 3/8” socket extensions work well. 
>> 
>> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it. Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time. 
>> 
>> - Bill Rabel
>>   Anacortes, WA
>> 
>> 
>> “Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.” - Sir Ernest Benn
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk <shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old door.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room visits in real life, not just internet clickbait.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do I need to de-tension the torsion spring first?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed skulls or broken limbs?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Scott
>>> 
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