[Shop-talk] De-coupling overhead door torsion spring

[Jeff Scarbrough]

Usually they are square-head bolts, in the fixture on the end of the spring
farthest from the central rod support.

On Tue, Oct 15, 2019 at 11:53 AM Scott Hall via Shop-talk <
shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Which bolts am I loosening, Bill? The ones that appear to hold to the
> shaft the fixture I'm going to be inserting the riffs into?
>
> Thanks.
>
> On Tue, Oct 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Bill Rabel <brabel at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Scott -
>>
>> De-tension the springs first. You will need two steel rods, 12” - 18”
>> long. 3/8” socket extensions work well.
>>
>> Put one rod into the hole in the collar with the securing bolts in it.
>> Hold on to the rod when you loosen the bolts, and use the two rods to
>> relieve the spring tension, 1/4 turn at a time.
>>
>> - Bill Rabel
>>   Anacortes, WA
>>
>>
>> “Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it whether it
>> exists or not, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedy.” -
>> Sir Ernest Benn
>>
>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:39 PM, Scott Hall via Shop-talk <
>> shop-talk at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Got a new insulated garage door for winter here. Need to remove the old
>> door.
>>
>>
>> Torsion springs seem to be one of those things that drive emergency room
>> visits in real life, not just internet clickbait.
>>
>>
>> Before I just do what Google says, I think I'd like to hear from the real
>> people on a subject like that. Can I somehow un-do the cable ends from the
>> door, or the cables from the springs and then remove the door panels, or do
>> I need to de-tension the torsion spring first?
>>
>>
>> And if I need to de-tension it, what's the best method to avoid smashed
>> skulls or broken limbs?
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>> Scott
>>
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