[Mgs] clutch woes

[Barney Gaylord]

Very early MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with two side ports and a 
banjo fitting for the hose connetion. The bleeder fitting has to go 
in the top port, hose connection to the bottom port.

Later MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with one side poet (high) for 
the bleeder and one end port (lower) for the hose (same hose), and no 
banjo fitting parts.

If you're not a concours show enthusiast, then I suggest all early 
MGA should be changed to the later style slave cylinder (first time 
it needs to be changed), and abandon the banjo fitting parts.

The MG clutch is notoriously difficult to bleed the first time, but 
once it is working it should stay working. If it loses fluid, you 
need to fix the leak point.  If it does not lose fluid, but stops 
working anyway, that would be rather wierd.


At 12:02 PM 11/25/2023, dave northrup wrote:
>....
>Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay 
>working.  several times I've gotten it to work, only to find in a 
>few days that it no longer works.
>
>as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form).
>
>I've replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough 
>Faire this time.  Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing 
>as well.  which brings me to my question.  As opposed to the brake 
>connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost 
>Rube Goldberg.  Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made 
>not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side?  Being 
>correct is not a factor; having it work is!
>....


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