[Mgs] clutch woes

[Paul Hunt]

Car model not given, but other than MGBs not having banjos at the slave 
much the same as Barney.  The MGB is also difficult to bleed, many 
techniques have been found to work from car to car, one of the simplest 
being to wedge the pedal fully down overnight then let it up slowly next 
morning.  That should give air bubbles time to gather near the top of 
the metal pipe, which are flushed back into the reservoir as the pedal 
is released.  You don't say whether fluid is being lost or not, or 
whether the loss of clutch action is gradual i.e. as indicated by the 
biting point getting lower and lower (test it daily at least), or is 
sudden.  Gradual loss when the car is being used can be from air being 
drawn past seals, or from leaks, which in the MGB can run down the pedal 
and be lost in the carpet as well as be external.  Any fluid in the dust 
cover?

PaulH

On 25/11/2023 17:02, dave northrup wrote:
>
> Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay working.  
> several times I’ve gotten it to work, only to find in a few days that 
> it no longer works.
>
> as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form).
>
> I’ve replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough Faire 
> this time.  Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing as 
> well.  which brings me to my question.  As opposed to the brake 
> connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost 
> Rube Goldberg.  Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made 
> not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side?  Being 
> correct is not a factor; having it work is!
>
>
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