[Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB

[dave]

Here is what I do – remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe into the radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the water doesn’t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water hose in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear.  Open the heater as much as possible as well.

 

Although I have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple gallons of rust remover and putting that in the engine and letting it sit for a day or two.  Has anyone actually done that?

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay via Mgs
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 AM
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
Cc: wkilleffer at epbfi.com; mgs at autox.team.net List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB

 

All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. 

 

My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. Hummm...

 

Rick

On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com <mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> > wrote:

Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed.  Even then would the water take the shortest route?  I.e. running the engine more effective?

----- Original Message ----- 

 

I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?

 

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