[Mgs] Carbs still being nasty

Clayton Kirkwood crk at godblessthe.us
Mon Dec 26 14:35:31 MST 2016


Paul,

 

The second to last picture shows the correct orientation: the conical end
does go in first. The Moss page suggests otherwise.

 

 

 

Alright folks, this is where I am. No leaks, properly polarized bowl valves,
readjusted the tabs for the valve moving part, bought new floats and
replaced overflow copper pipes (no charcoal - just straight drip, and new
jet needles. I watched video from Twist and was able to get a good drop like
his - 6 - 8 seconds. The stop plates for the idle screws are heavily dug
pitted, which led to the problems of screwing them out and then back in 1.5
turns. I have been having some success with tuning the idle screw and jet,
but I get hardly a change in engine.

 

I can't keep the engine running when tuning for both slow idle, it dies as
soon as I start it. I have had some success listening through the rubber
tube and there is significant difference. I presume the intake which sounds
weaker needs the idle raised??

 

I also plan on using Barney's adjustment of the throttle wire: mine is quite
loose. The starter readjusted itself.

 

TIA,

 

Clayton

 

 

 

From: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 6, 2016 1:05 AM
To: crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Carbs still being nasty

 

Do we know what year this car is?  Which SUs or Stromberg?

 

If you have the charcoal canister then it's possible for that to get choked,
and there is plenty of pipe-work to get blocked and cause problems as well.

 

If you are talking about the float valve there should be a sprung metal pin
at the bottom that the float lever bears on.  The tip was originally brass
and conical going into a circular chamfered seat, later changed to Viton
which is typically black or red, but still conical, see here
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fvalve.htm#1  My manuals don't show what you
describe, but Moss Europe for the HIF does seem to show the moving part of
the valve upside down relative to the float, but the HS is the right way up.
It's not possible to tell from the US Moss site which way up they are in
either HS or HIF.  That's not to say that someone hasn't installed a really
rubbish copy.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

 

Well, I took an air compressor to the bottom end of the tub and couldn't get
any air through the tube.

 

As to the valve: the manual and I think Moss show the rubber down which hits
the lever, leaving the brass to close against the valve hole at the top.

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