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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Paul,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The second to last picture shows the correct orientation: the conical end does go in first. The Moss page suggests otherwise.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Alright folks, this is where I am. No leaks, properly polarized bowl valves, readjusted the tabs for the valve moving part, bought new floats and replaced overflow copper pipes (no charcoal – just straight drip, and new jet needles. I watched video from Twist and was able to get a good drop like his – 6 – 8 seconds. The stop plates for the idle screws are heavily dug pitted, which led to the problems of screwing them out and then back in 1.5 turns. I have been having some success with tuning the idle screw and jet, but I get hardly a change in engine.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I can’t keep the engine running when tuning for both slow idle, it dies as soon as I start it. I have had some success listening through the rubber tube and there is significant difference. I presume the intake which sounds weaker needs the idle raised??<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I also plan on using Barney’s adjustment of the throttle wire: mine is quite loose. The starter readjusted itself.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>TIA,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Clayton<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, December 6, 2016 1:05 AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] Carbs still being nasty<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>Do we know what year this car is? Which SUs or Stromberg?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>If you have the charcoal canister then it's possible for that to get choked, and there is plenty of pipe-work to get blocked and cause problems as well.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>If you are talking about the float valve there should be a sprung metal pin at the bottom that the float lever bears on. The tip was originally brass and conical going into a circular chamfered seat, later changed to Viton which is typically black or red, but still conical, see here <a href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fvalve.htm#1">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fvalve.htm#1</a> My manuals don't show what you describe, but Moss Europe for the HIF does seem to show the moving part of the valve upside down relative to the float, but the HS is the right way up. It's not possible to tell from the US Moss site which way up they are in either HS or HIF. That's not to say that someone hasn't installed a really rubbish copy.</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>PaulH.</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal>Well, I took an air compressor to the bottom end of the tub and couldn’t get any air through the tube.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>As to the valve: the manual and I think Moss show the rubber down which hits the lever, leaving the brass to close against the valve hole at the top.<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></body></html>