[Mgs] Oil filter sealing

Charley & Peggy Robinson ccrobins at ktc.com
Mon Mar 10 13:07:50 MDT 2014


Top rings usually break due to contact with the ridges at the top of the 
cylinders.  That means a lot of wear.  In any event it sounds like a 
candidate for a rebore.

CR
On 3/10/2014 9:13 AM, mgbob at juno.com wrote:
> Paul,
>     Though I have seen plenty of retained seals in the cannister filter heads,
> this is a challenge I have not seen before.
>     Yesterday afternoon was spent by helping a friend remove 1969 MGC engine
> from his GT.   He said that engine had been experiencing intermittent
> overheating last summer, losing water but neither leaving puddles or making
> steam out the exhaust that anyone had reported to him.  His driving season was
> concluded when the engine seized.
>      Stripped to bare block, the lined cylinders all had visible honing marks,
> but two cylinders had a scratch. All top rings were broken. No metal in sump
> or oil pump, and all bearings appeared normal.  The cause seems to be that
> previous owner had replaced water pump, with a new pump that was not well
> cast, and had had to be modified to fit the engine. Not marked with a brand
> name, it had large clearance between impellor and housing, and the output
> passage appeared restricted.   We are hoping that he finds no further damage.
> Bob
>
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] Oil filter sealing
> Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 13:09:40 -0000
>
> Anyone seen this before?
> http://www.paulhunt73.webspace.virginmedia.com/mgb-stuff/images/fh2.jpg
>
> I've had the roadster (1973 with inverted filter on an adapter) 25 years and
> changed oil and filter annually. For years I never had a problem, then
> started
> getting a spurt of oil from the new filter at first start, about an egg-cup
> full, then it sealed itself and no further problem. Then it started getting
> worse. A couple of years ago I had to remove and reseat the filter, checking
> the seal and the face on the filter head, before it would seal. Then last
> year
> I had to remove and replace four times, and use a second new filter, before
> it
> sealed. I thought there must be a problem with the filter head so got a
> 2nd-hand one.
>
> This year I removed the old filter and looking at the filter head the sealing
> face seemed obviously warped, something I had not noticed before. I got a new
> filter and smeared copper grease round the seal, and screwed it on till it
> just touched. Removed it, and the grease had transferred to just two areas
> 180
> degrees apart, with about as much area again showing no grease. Regreased the
> seal and fitted it again, this time tightening it by half a turn after
> contact. Removed it again, and this time grease was showing about 3/4 the way
> round the sealing face, no grease top right, where it has always spurted
> from.
>
> Checked the replacement filter head and that was dead flat, filter sealed all
> the way round as soon as it touched. Swapped the filter heads (stressing
> about
> a seized adapter fixing bolt, but it was barely finger-tight!) and with a new
> filter on the old head when the seal was just touching at two opposite sides
> there were gaps between them, one of them being 65 thou. You can see daylight
> right through as in the attached. Tightened by half a turn it was still 25
> thou where it has been spurting from.
>
> New filter head has sealed just fine. The original filter head must have been
> warping gradually over the years, as I can't imagine how multiple filter
> manufacturers could have contrived to change their seals, gradually and in
> unison, such that a fixed warp on my filter head gradually got harder to
> seal.
> But I guess I'll never know.
>
> PaulH.
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