[Mgs] Front Wheel bearings 70B

James Schulte schultejim at msn.com
Mon Aug 30 15:27:36 MDT 2010


Folks,
I think I'm screwed here. I took everything apart and cleaned and air dried. I
was putting the races back in when I discovered the outer is loose in it's
proper position. The inner is snug as it should be. I took the new race out
and put the old one back in to see if there was a difference. It was loose as
well. I don't remember this being the case when I took it apart but I was in a
rush and may not have noticed. This may be the cause of the wobble in the
tire. The old bearing was not scored nor is the bearing spindle. I believe I
need to replace the Hub.

Jim Schulte
VP Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club
ACA Instructor





> From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
> To: schultejim at msn.com; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Front Wheel bearings 70B
> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:14:42 +0100
>
> Was it the rollers or the inner ring they run on that was marked?  If the
> latter it could have been because the inner ring was spinning on the axle
> shaft, but then the nut would have been loose when the split-pin was
> removed.  Insufficient shims causing lack of free play or end-float would
> affect both bearings in the set equally.
>
> There should have been a series of shims between the spacer and the outer
> bearing.  A thick one of 30 thou, then a series of thinner ones at 3, 5 and
> 10 thou which set the gap.  Reassemble dry (easier to judge when there is
> end-float or not) and don't fit the oil seal, with no shims tighten the nut
> to 40 ft lb or until they start to bind to seat the bearings in the hub,
> then start setting the shims.  By juggling combinations 3, 5 and 10 thou you
> can get pretty much any thickness in one thou steps from 8 thou up, and you
> should need more than that.  What you are looking for is one set that gives
> just perceptible play, and another set one thou smaller that doesn't.  The
> lower set plus a 3 thou will give you the correct 2 to 4 thou end-float.
> The shims are not marked, but by using one shim to bend another one you can
> tell which is which.
>
> When you have the right combination remove the races and pack them by
> pressing grease in from one side only until it oozes out the other end of
> the rollers. Patience is required, don't be tempted to speed things up by
> pressing it in from both sides or you will trap air and have insufficient
> grease.  The smaller outer bearing is more important, centrifugal force
> tends to throw grease into the larger inner bearing.  With the races
> replaced fit the oil seal, groove and lip facing the bearing, lip greased,
> with the groove packed with grease.  Don't pack the space between the
> bearings with grease.  Refit the hub, spacer, shims, outer race, sealing
> washer and nut.  Tighten the nut to a minimum of 40 ft lb, then to the next
> split-pin hole (should be two in the spindle), which should be before 70 ft
> lb, and insert a split-pin.  This *shouldn't* remove the end float.  Make
> sure the play you are feeling is in the hub bearings and not anywhere else
> like the king-pin bearings etc.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > I pulled the right front wheel and disassembled the bearings due to it
> > having
> > too much play on my 70B. The outside bearing (smaller of the 2 ) was
> > charred
> > like it might have been over tightened. I'm replacing it with a new set
of
> > bearings. There was a really thin shim that was stuck on the cone shaped
> > spacer. Not sure what size. Any hints or tips welcome.


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