[Mgs] Front Wheel bearings 70B

[Max Heim]

It is at least conceivably possible that your machine shop could repair this
hub by adding a bead of weld then lathing it to the correct inside diameter
and pressing the new race. I suggest this since I know quality hubs can be
hard to find.


--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires



on 8/30/10 2:27 PM, James Schulte at schultejim at msn.com wrote:

> Folks,
> I think I'm screwed here. I took everything apart and cleaned and air dried. I
> was putting the races back in when I discovered the outer is loose in it's
> proper position. The inner is snug as it should be. I took the new race out
> and put the old one back in to see if there was a difference. It was loose as
> well. I don't remember this being the case when I took it apart but I was in a
> rush and may not have noticed. This may be the cause of the wobble in the
> tire. The old bearing was not scored nor is the bearing spindle. I believe I
> need to replace the Hub.
> 
> Jim Schulte
> VP Lehigh Valley Kayak & Canoe Club
> ACA Instructor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> From: paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk
>> To: schultejim at msn.com; mgs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Front Wheel bearings 70B
>> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:14:42 +0100
>> 
>> Was it the rollers or the inner ring they run on that was marked?  If the
>> latter it could have been because the inner ring was spinning on the axle
>> shaft, but then the nut would have been loose when the split-pin was
>> removed.  Insufficient shims causing lack of free play or end-float would
>> affect both bearings in the set equally.
>> 
>> There should have been a series of shims between the spacer and the outer
>> bearing.  A thick one of 30 thou, then a series of thinner ones at 3, 5 and
>> 10 thou which set the gap.  Reassemble dry (easier to judge when there is
>> end-float or not) and don't fit the oil seal, with no shims tighten the nut
>> to 40 ft lb or until they start to bind to seat the bearings in the hub,
>> then start setting the shims.  By juggling combinations 3, 5 and 10 thou you
>> can get pretty much any thickness in one thou steps from 8 thou up, and you
>> should need more than that.  What you are looking for is one set that gives
>> just perceptible play, and another set one thou smaller that doesn't.  The
>> lower set plus a 3 thou will give you the correct 2 to 4 thou end-float.
>> The shims are not marked, but by using one shim to bend another one you can
>> tell which is which.
>> 
>> When you have the right combination remove the races and pack them by
>> pressing grease in from one side only until it oozes out the other end of
>> the rollers. Patience is required, don't be tempted to speed things up by
>> pressing it in from both sides or you will trap air and have insufficient
>> grease.  The smaller outer bearing is more important, centrifugal force
>> tends to throw grease into the larger inner bearing.  With the races
>> replaced fit the oil seal, groove and lip facing the bearing, lip greased,
>> with the groove packed with grease.  Don't pack the space between the
>> bearings with grease.  Refit the hub, spacer, shims, outer race, sealing
>> washer and nut.  Tighten the nut to a minimum of 40 ft lb, then to the next
>> split-pin hole (should be two in the spindle), which should be before 70 ft
>> lb, and insert a split-pin.  This *shouldn't* remove the end float.  Make
>> sure the play you are feeling is in the hub bearings and not anywhere else
>> like the king-pin bearings etc.
>> 
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> I pulled the right front wheel and disassembled the bearings due to it
>>> having
>>> too much play on my 70B. The outside bearing (smaller of the 2 ) was
>>> charred
>>> like it might have been over tightened. I'm replacing it with a new set
> of
>>> bearings. There was a really thin shim that was stuck on the cone shaped
>>> spacer. Not sure what size. Any hints or tips welcome.