[Healeys] Glycol in oil
Michael Salter
michaelsalter at gmail.com
Sat Mar 16 08:25:32 MDT 2024
I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.
M
On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprated'
> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a good
> flux.
>
> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>
>
>
>
> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candidate
> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it was!
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16 PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
> Wayne - you are a star !
> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
> Thank you for responding .
> rg
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
> Wayne,
> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I
> understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
> rg
>
>
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> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Roger,
> My friend who had a Healey 3000 had a similar issue. We would
> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
> the 6 and 7 tappets. With that tappet cover off we could see coolant
> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen the boss with a
> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
> step in locating your problem. Good luck.
>
> Wayne
>
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