[Healeys] Glycol in oil

[Bob Spidell]

MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best 
bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 
'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the 
result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can 
and use a good flux.

https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron




On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence 
> in any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including 
> inside the actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it 
> might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via 
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it was!
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16 PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>     Wayne - you are a star !
>     I got lucky and think that I have found it.
>     Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
>     Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover
>     mounting boss; there is a ridge there just above the distributor
>     drive.
>     Was this where the one you worked on was ?
>     Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea
>     what they used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the
>     oozing got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
>     So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
>     Thank you for responding .
>     rg
>
>
>
>     ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>     From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
>     Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM
>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
>     To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>     Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>     Wayne,
>     Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite
>     sure that I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to
>     the sump ? Is this the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan
>     is to get the pan off and pressurize the coolant with some dye in
>     it and hopefully locate it.
>     So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe
>     that is a block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
>     rg
>
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>
>
>     On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>     wrote:
>
>         Hi Roger,
>         My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We
>         would find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap.
>         I found when we pressurized the cooling system with the engine
>         warm, no leak noted, with the engine cold a slight coolant
>         leak in pressure. I decided to drop the oil pan to look for
>         leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping into
>         the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in
>         between the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we
>         could see coolant drips forming in that boss running down into
>         the pan area. It would only leak when cold. Porosity? I think
>         so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a punch and seal with JB
>         Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest dropping your oil
>         pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first step
>         in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>
>                        Wayne
>
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