[Healeys] Glycol in oil

Sat Mar 16 20:50:27 MDT 2024

Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other
applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.
There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It
oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.
Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.
A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum
resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now
What intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's
friend had.
So it surely is a weakness of this block ?
Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?
I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the
valve cover.
Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the
oil analysis alarm.
rg
rg

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On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
> irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
> https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
> I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
>> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprated'
>> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
>> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a good
>> flux.
>>
>> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
>> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
>> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candidate
>> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yes, it was!
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16 PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> Wayne - you are a star !
>> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
>> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
>> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
>> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
>> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
>> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
>> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
>> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
>> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
>> Thank you for responding .
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
>> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
>> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>> Wayne,
>> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that
>> I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
>> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
>> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
>> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
>> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
>> rg
>>
>>
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>> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roger,
>> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
>> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
>> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
>> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
>> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
>> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
>> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
>> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
>> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
>> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
>> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
>> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>>
>>                Wayne
>>
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