[Healeys] fuel pump

Sun Apr 23 11:43:47 MDT 2023

I like to do the "Throw over" adjustment on a live battery which
insures that the diaphragm is in the correct hole location (4 or 5
back). Energizing the unit insures it is correct for the
point/diaphragm length position. 
Then viewing that photo as was sent with more rust than desired, I
feel that one of the most important items in the rebuild is the cap
seal. Usually missing or rotted but friction tape would substitute if
necessary. It keeps water out of the critical electrical parts
constantly slopping at it under the wheel well. Additionally, Moss
supplies a paper SU seal cover to finish the look. SUs forever! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Kees Oudesluijs via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday April 23 2023 5:24:02AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump

	 Op 23-4-2023 om 11:58 schreef Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys:
 SU AUF301 or the later replacement AZX 1308.

 Keep the standard set up and repair the original unit but add a
bidirectional diode (transil/TVS 18V or 19V peak) over the standard
capacitor to further reduce arcing over the points. It is usually
sufficient to sand the points using say 400 wet&dry until there are no
or hardly any black spots visible and finish the surface with 1200
wet&dry. Set the gaps at 0,9mm and 2,8mm. If the valves or valve seals
do not leak leave them well alone. The same with the domed covers.
When separating the coil housing from the pump body make sure you do
not tear the thin white mylar layer of the three layer diaphragm. If
the original diaphragm is intact keep it and do not use a modern
replacement. I have rebuilt many pumps with diaphragms over 60 years
old that are still in pristine condition. I have rebuild well over a
hundred pumps and rarely see deteriorated diaphragms and the ones that
are faulty usually had the thin mylar layer damaged. Carefully loosen
the three layers, clean with brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly and
apply some talcum powder very sparingly between the layers to reduce
friction and binding.

 If the Bakelite top or the bridge is cracked or even broken you can
easily fix that using Araldite or similar. The bridge can easily crack
when the screws are turned down to tight.

 These pumps are utterly reliable when used regularly and can last
well over 100.000 miles on a set of points and even then it usually
suffice to polish them. When left for a considerable time in a not
completely dry storage the points will corrode and fail, which means
taking the points out, polishing and adjusting them properly.
 Even when buying a new points pump it might not work initially
because of corrosion forming during storage. Before installing one
should always run a bit rough carton followed by flower paper 1200
through the points!

 The pump on my Jensen-Healey, which is the same as on the A-H 3000,
has done well over 250.000 miles since 1974 on two cars. It was not in
use between 1985 and 2008 bar a yearly start up. I transplanted it
from my first J-H to my present one (from the US) which had a modern
pump installed when I bought it. Most parts are still original
including the (re-polished) points but I did add a transil a few years
ago and renewed the cork seal under the large dome as the cork was a
bit crumbly.

 On various official SU sites you can find an excellent description of
how to rebuild and set up these pumps. There are also some good
recordings on You Tube however there are also some that are absolute
crap and do not give any description of how to properly set up the
pumps.

 When adjusting the diaphragm you should officially turn back the
diaphragm 4 holes. It is sometimes necessary to turn back 5 or 6
holes. Start with 4 and if the pump is not starting up part dismantle
and turn another one or two holes.

 If need be the original points pumps can be repaired "en route". The
solid state pumps cannot.

 The solid state SU pumps can be temperamental. Some last for ever
without fail but others just give up or won't start up at all. They
are also difficult to set up reliably if they need attention. The
culprit seems to often be the small plastic bush in the coil housing
that is meant to guide the shaft on the diaphragm. This bush can sink
out of sight ending up near the diaphragm.

 The similar plastic replacement SS pumps from New Zealand under
various brand names seem very reliable and cheap.

 Important is that you fit the pump in the car with the outlet facing
upwards!!

 Some of you have fitted the AZX1307 which is for an MGB. It will work
for normal driving but as its delivery pressure is lower than the
AZX1308 it may not do for spirited driving. These two pumps are
identical bar the conical spring on the diaphragm which determines the
delivery pressure and the plastic cover with the vent on top.

 Kees Oudesluijs

 Op 23-4-2023 om 02:02 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
guy in our club has a BT7 whose fuel pump expired. he is wondering
about whether to replace with solid state or standard. wanted to know
what the wisdom of the group is on this subject. 2 of us in club have
solid state ones that refuse to work and just take up space in the
parts bin. also, he has a ten year old recored radiator that he
replaced with an aluminum one and also a steel transmission tunnel
cover that he would like to sell since they are now just taking up
space. no reasonable offer refused.
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