<html><body>I like to do the "Throw over" adjustment on a live battery which insures that the diaphragm is in the correct hole location (4 or 5 back). Energizing the unit insures it is correct for the point/diaphragm length position. <div><br></div><div>Then viewing that photo as was sent with more rust than desired, I feel that one of the most important items in the rebuild is the cap seal. Usually missing or rotted but friction tape would substitute if necessary. It keeps water out of the critical electrical parts constantly slopping at it under the wheel well. Additionally, Moss supplies a paper SU seal cover to finish the look. SUs forever! Hank<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Sunday April 23 2023 5:24:02AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pump<br><br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 23-4-2023 om 11:58 schreef Kees
Oudesluijs via Healeys:<br></div>
<blockquote>SU AUF301 or
the later replacement AZX 1308.<br><br>
Keep the standard set up and repair the original unit but add a
bidirectional diode (transil/TVS 18V or 19V peak) over the standard
capacitor to further reduce arcing over the points. It is usually
sufficient to sand the points using say 400 wet&dry until there
are no or hardly any black spots visible and finish the surface
with 1200 wet&dry. Set the gaps at 0,9mm and 2,8mm. If the
valves or valve seals do not leak leave them well alone. The same
with the domed covers. When separating the coil housing from the
pump body make sure you do not tear the thin white mylar
layer of the three layer diaphragm. If the original diaphragm is
intact keep it and do not use a modern replacement. I have rebuilt
many pumps with diaphragms over 60 years old that are still in
pristine condition. I have rebuild well over a hundred pumps and
rarely see deteriorated diaphragms and the ones that are faulty
usually had the thin mylar layer damaged. Carefully loosen the
three layers, clean with brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly and
apply some talcum powder very sparingly between the layers to
reduce friction and binding.<br><br>
If the Bakelite top or the bridge is cracked or even broken you can
easily fix that using Araldite or similar. The bridge can easily
crack when the screws are turned down to tight.<br><br>
These pumps are utterly reliable when used regularly and can last
well over 100.000 miles on a set of points and even then it usually
suffice to polish them. When left for a considerable time in a not
completely dry storage the points will corrode and fail, which
means taking the points out, polishing and adjusting them
properly.<br>
Even when buying a new points pump it might not work initially
because of corrosion forming during storage. Before installing one
should always run a bit rough carton followed by flower paper 1200
through the points!<br><br>
The pump on my Jensen-Healey, which is the same as on the A-H 3000,
has done well over 250.000 miles since 1974 on two cars. It was not
in use between 1985 and 2008 bar a yearly start up. I transplanted
it from my first J-H to my present one (from the US) which had a
modern pump installed when I bought it. Most parts are still
original including the (re-polished) points but I did add a transil
a few years ago and renewed the cork seal under the large dome as
the cork was a bit crumbly.<br><br>
On various official SU sites you can find an excellent description
of how to rebuild and set up these pumps. There are also some good
recordings on You Tube however there are also some that are
absolute crap and do not give any description of how to properly
set up the pumps.<br><br>
When adjusting the diaphragm you should officially turn back the
diaphragm 4 holes. It is sometimes necessary to turn back 5 or 6
holes. Start with 4 and if the pump is not starting up part
dismantle and turn another one or two holes.<br><br>
If need be the original points pumps can be repaired "en route".
The solid state pumps cannot.<br><br>
The solid state SU pumps can be temperamental. Some last for ever
without fail but others just give up or won't start up at all. They
are also difficult to set up reliably if they need attention. The
culprit seems to often be the small plastic bush in the coil
housing that is meant to guide the shaft on the diaphragm. This
bush can sink out of sight ending up near the diaphragm.<br><br>
The similar plastic replacement SS pumps from New Zealand under
various brand names seem very reliable and cheap.<br><br>
Important is that you fit the pump in the car with the outlet
facing upwards!!<br><br>
Some of you have fitted the AZX1307 which is for an MGB. It will
work for normal driving but as its delivery pressure is lower than
the AZX1308 it may not do for spirited driving. These two pumps are
identical bar the conical spring on the diaphragm which determines
the delivery pressure and the plastic cover with the vent on
top.<br><br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br>
Op 23-4-2023 om 02:02 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:<br><blockquote>guy in our club has a BT7 whose fuel pump
expired. he is wondering about whether to replace with solid
state or standard. wanted to know what the wisdom of the group is
on this subject. 2 of us in club have solid state ones
that refuse to work and just take up space in the parts bin.
also, he has a ten year old recored radiator that he replaced with
an aluminum one and also a steel transmission tunnel cover
that he would like to sell since they are now just taking up
space. no reasonable offer refused.<br>
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