[Healeys] fuel pump

Sun Apr 23 05:31:15 MDT 2023

Op 23-4-2023 om 11:58 schreef Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys:
> SU AUF301 or the later replacement AZX 1308.
>
> Keep the standard set up and repair the original unit but add a 
> bidirectional diode (transil/TVS 18V or 19V peak) over the standard 
> capacitor to further reduce arcing over the points. It is usually 
> sufficient to sand the points using say 400 wet&dry until there are no 
> or hardly any black spots visible and finish the surface with 1200 
> wet&dry. Set the gaps at 0,9mm and 2,8mm. If the valves or valve seals 
> do not leak leave them well alone. The same with the domed covers. 
> When separating the coil housing from the pump  body make sure you do 
> not tear the thin white mylar layer of the three layer diaphragm. If 
> the original diaphragm is intact keep it and do not use a modern 
> replacement. I have rebuilt many pumps with diaphragms over 60 years 
> old that are still in pristine condition. I have rebuild well over a 
> hundred pumps and rarely see deteriorated diaphragms and the ones that 
> are faulty usually had the thin mylar layer damaged. Carefully loosen 
> the three layers, clean with brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly and 
> apply some talcum powder very sparingly between the layers to reduce 
> friction and binding.
>
> If the Bakelite top or the bridge is cracked or even broken you can 
> easily fix that using Araldite or similar. The bridge can easily crack 
> when the screws are turned down to tight.
>
> These pumps are utterly reliable when used regularly and can last well 
> over 100.000 miles on a set of points and even then it usually suffice 
> to polish them. When left for a considerable time in a not completely 
> dry storage the points will corrode and fail, which means taking the 
> points out, polishing and adjusting them properly.
> Even when buying a new points pump it might not work initially because 
> of corrosion forming during storage. Before installing one should 
> always run a bit rough carton followed by flower paper 1200 through 
> the points!
>
> The pump on my Jensen-Healey, which is the same as on the A-H 3000, 
> has done well over 250.000 miles since 1974 on two cars. It was not in 
> use between 1985 and 2008 bar a yearly start up. I transplanted it 
> from my first J-H to my present one (from the US) which had a modern 
> pump installed when I bought it. Most parts are still original 
> including the (re-polished) points but I did add a transil a few years 
> ago and renewed the cork seal under the large dome as the cork was a 
> bit crumbly.
>
> On various official SU sites you can find an excellent description of 
> how to rebuild and set up these pumps. There are also some good 
> recordings on You Tube however there are also some that are absolute 
> crap and do not give any description of how to properly set up the pumps.
>
> When adjusting the diaphragm you should officially turn back the 
> diaphragm 4 holes. It is sometimes necessary to turn back 5 or 6 
> holes. Start with 4 and if the pump is not starting up part dismantle 
> and turn another one or two holes.
>
> If need be the original points pumps can be repaired "en route". The 
> solid state pumps cannot.
>
> The solid state SU pumps can be temperamental. Some last for ever 
> without fail but others just give up or won't start up at all. They 
> are also difficult to set up reliably if they need attention. The 
> culprit seems to often be the small plastic bush in the coil housing 
> that is meant to guide the shaft on the diaphragm. This bush can sink 
> out of sight ending up near the diaphragm.
>
> The similar plastic replacement SS pumps from New Zealand under 
> various brand names seem very reliable and cheap.
>
> Important is that you fit the pump in the car with the outlet facing 
> upwards!!
>
> Some of you have fitted the AZX1307 which is for an MGB. It will work 
> for normal driving but as its delivery pressure is lower than the 
> AZX1308 it may not do for spirited driving. These two pumps are 
> identical bar the conical spring on the diaphragm which determines the 
> delivery pressure and the plastic cover with the vent on top.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 23-4-2023 om 02:02 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>> guy in our club has a BT7 whose fuel pump expired.  he is wondering 
>> about whether to replace with solid state or standard. wanted to know 
>> what the wisdom of the group is on this subject.   2 of us in club 
>> have solid state ones that refuse to work and just take up space in 
>> the parts bin.  also, he has a ten year old recored radiator that he 
>> replaced with an aluminum one and also  a steel transmission tunnel 
>> cover that he would like to sell since they are now just taking up 
>> space.  no reasonable offer refused.
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>

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