[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 15, Issue 293

Fri Sep 30 18:08:20 MDT 2022

Misfire issue
I suspect that the weight of the fuel is causing a ground to go away. When the tank is light it reappears. That’s my hunch. Good luck,Dave Walsh

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On Friday, September 30, 2022, 3:18 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint (John Spaur)
  2. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Jim Ryan)
  3. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Wasserman)
  4. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Oritt)
  5. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Seigrist)
  6. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Salter)
  7. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Michael Oritt)
  8. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
  9. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Alan Seigrist)
  10. Re: Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (Roland Wilhelmy)
  11. Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
  12. Re: ignition warning light (Mark Donaldson)
  13. Re: ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
  14. Re: ignition warning light (Mark Donaldson)
  15. Re: ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
  16. Ignition warning light (Ian Hey)
  17. Re: Ignition warning light (Warren Dietz)
  18. Re: Ignition warning light (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
  19. BN2 side curtain rivet type (S and T Miller)

They are typically 1” long.

John

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 9:32 AM
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Greasing the Driveshaft U Joint

Hello,

My Healey is nearing completion and after installing the driveshaft I tried to grease the U-Joint only to find the nozzle on my grease gun is too large to fit into the u-joint. Is there a grease gun with a narrow nozzle or a narrow nozzle extension? I replaced the u-joints and used the grease fittings that came with the new joints. Should the grease nipples (zerk fitting) be changed to the longer ones?

Thanks... Harold

What happens if you don't turn the car off when you fill it up?
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 11:07 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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How old are your plug wires?  Any chance a few worn out wires be the origin?

Alan WassermanAlanwassermannc at gmail.com732-887-0742www.wassermanstudio.com

On Sep 28, 2022, at 6:24 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

This problem has plagued me for over 1000 miles.

Today I had to drive some 200 miles and this is how it went:

Starting from cold I experienced a persistent and irregular misfire.

Pulling the choke out made no perceivable difference.

Power was not much affected and the car cruised along wellin top overdrive with just regular periods of misfiring.

Climbing slopes really made no difference, even when fullthrottle was applied for 10 - 15 seconds.

Misfire continued for some 90 miles with no change when theengine was fully heated up.

I could really do nothing to influence the rate of themisfire although it did seem to be slightly less evident at low throttlesettings.

After 90 miles I stopped briefly to get fuel and uponstarting off it was quite evident that the misfire had disappeared almost completelyand remained that way for at least 80 miles after which it started to misfirejust a little as I came to the end of the trip.

 POSSIBLE CAUSES

1.     Plugs … not like a bad plug. The misfire seemsto be more than 1 cylinder and never came close to being the regular beat that 1plug misfiring produces. All the plugs have a healthy brown/ grey appearance.

2.     Coil …  Inmy experience coils are very reliable but when they do fail they tend to failas they warm up and the problem gets worse as the coil warms up

3.     Points … a possibility but the dwell is set atexactly 60 degrees and does not waver at all when the engine is running in theshop.

4.     Fuel pump … if the engine was starving for fuelbecause of a fuel supply issue caused by a blockage or failing pump the problemwould get worse when the demand for fuel increased, as in climbing a hill offull throttle. This was absolutely not the case.

Any ideas folks?

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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Michael--
You have to remember that when talking about problems with a Healey the unlikely sometimes becomes probable.  If you haven't already done so I would suggest that you drain and flush the tank either in situ or out of the car. 
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 10:02 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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 Check for a pin hole in the fuel pickup tube.
Bill LawrenceBN1#554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 2:01 AM
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis. BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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If the bits are floating around in the tank sometimes they are away from the pick up, other times they are stuck on the pickup.  It acts like a little flapper valve that can float loose from time to time, and finds its way back to the pickup as fuel is being drawn to the engine.  Good to use an endoscope and check the tank.  

I'm still leaning toward bad battery master or bad wire connection somewhere.  Also if lights are dim, clean the battery contacts.
On Fri, Sep 30, 2022 at 10:02 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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So what is unique to a fuel stop besides the fuel?  Adding weight to the boot area, opening the boot lid, removing the filler cap.  What else?
An unvented filler cap could restrict fuel flow.  Extra weight  and even opening the boot lid could shift some recalcitrant ground or other connection or loose shorted wire. Maybe even at the battery switch. -Roland
On Thu, Sep 29, 2022, 8:12 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

BUT ... the fact that full throttle and climbing a slope with no change in the amount of misfiring tends to negate fuel blockage as a cause. I'm starting to think that the refueling situation is something of a "red herring" although it certainly is an odd one.
On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:23 p.m. Alan Seigrist, <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Good point.  I had a very similar experience when I had mistakenly used high heat silicone to seal the fuel tank sender, and I didn’t know that fuel caused flakes of it to fall off and plug the pickup intermittently.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2022 at 4:38 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I had a similar miss that was caused by a leaf that had gotten into the tank.  It would be pulled against the pickup by fuel flow and cause the engine to lose power on all cylinders, as opposed to a miss.  When I either got off the gas pedal or shut the engine down the leaf would apparently fall away from the pickup and everything would be fine until the leaf was once again pulled against the pickup, etc. etc. 
I empirically came up with this theory after I pulled the fuel sender, searched around in the tank with a flashlight and found the leaf, and after I removed it the miss went away.  How the leaf got into the tank when the fuel filler is inside the boot is a larger issue I never figured out.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 11:01 AM Don Anglesey via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I suspect that when the tank is filled any sediment or debris around the tank intake is redistributed thru the fuel then it settles again.  Classic sign of bad fuel filter or sediment in tank.

Don

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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Hello Mike,

I still suspect the master switch, or the white/black wire to it.

To check this, just take the white/black wire off the distributer and coil. And instead make a temporary connection (wire) from coil to distributer. And now make a test drive.

Cheers,

Josef Eckert

Konigswinter/GERMANY

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2022 8:10 AM
To: Alan Seigrist
Cc: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 100 Misfire Diagnosis.

Thanks to all who have obviously given this misfire issue considerable thought. I will be sure to check all suggestions. 

I  should like to point out however that it is the immediate vanishing of the misfire after filling the fuel tank that has me confused. 

This has happened three times simce the problem appeared.

I just don't understand how an ignition problem could change as a result of filling the tank.

Furthermore I'm convinced that this is not a fuel starvation problem because the amount of engine power being used has no effect.

Totally baffled.

Thanks again to all ... I'll  report back.

On Thu., Sep. 29, 2022, 9:14 a.m. Alan Seigrist via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi John -

Yes, that was the point I was trying to make, sorry if it fell through bad interpretation!  As Ed McMahon used to say, "You Are Correct Sir!"

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 7:53 PM john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

Alan

Coils can fail with heat and then recover when cooled. I had one that had these symptoms and when looking closely I saw that the insulating oil had run out through a very small crack in the bottom of the case.

On Thu, 29 Sept 2022 at 10:34, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

Michael -

Just as a follow up to my email since the symptoms seem to manifest themself  ... 

   - whether the car is warmed up or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel or the coil
   - whether the car is under load or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - whether the choke is pulled or not - this typically will exclude anything related to fuel
   - somewhat intermittent but systematically under all conditions - suggests to me wiring / ground issues

Given this I'd check (as a priority):

   - Battery Master (when these fail they will ground the coil)
   - primary ignition wire (white) from the switch to coil (cycle the connections)
   - motor ground straps (cycle the connections)
   - loose wires in the dizzy
   - loose ignition wires into the dizzy or spark plug

Other things to possibly do (as secondary):

   - replace rotor
   - replace dizzy cap

I don't think it would be contacts or condensor simply because this would either be very regular all the time, or maybe sensitive to temp.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, Sep 29, 2022 at 4:46 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

re: "... I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire ..."

It is (or should be). If the battery switch is in the 'OFF' position it grounds the coil primary so no spark.

On 9/28/2022 8:34 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:

Hi Michael -

Have you tried cycling the connections on the white wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and also from the coil to the distributor.

You might also want to try disconnecting the black and white wire at the coil from the battery master switch - if it’s failing you’ll get weird symptoms like this.  If that wire is disconnected the car should run no problem.  I don’t recall if that wire is separate from the distributor wire, if it isn’t you’ll have to disconnect it from underneath the master switch itself.

Best,

Alan

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Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That’s ‘peanuts’ in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Pretty sure that you can’t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe – as I was recently advised here – take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

Sounds like a plan to me. Still – to revert to the original question – not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can’t remember!

Simon

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That’s ‘peanuts’ in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Pretty sure that you can’t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe – as I was recently advised here – take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson
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Simon,

I don’t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.  

The light is there only as a ‘tell tale’.   It doesn’t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is – try it and see.

Cheers

Mark

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Sounds like a plan to me. Still – to revert to the original question – not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can’t remember!

Simon

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That’s ‘peanuts’ in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Pretty sure that you can’t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe – as I was recently advised here – take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

It is, I think, all to do with how LEDs work. I’m not an expert but I refer you to someone who is:-

IGNITION WARNING LAMP - What It Does And Doesn't Do (mgaguru.com)

Of course, I’ve never tried it so can’t be sure either way!

I seem to recall that our usual bulbs come in different degrees of brightness depending on their originally intended application. I think that I used to get mine from a motorbike place….

Simon

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 11:28
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Simon,

I don’t believe whether a charging system is generator or alternator makes any difference.  

The light is there only as a ‘tell tale’.   It doesn’t need to offer a resistance, and the current drain of that little LED is tiny.

My suggestion is – try it and see.

Cheers

Mark

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 11:18 PM
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Sounds like a plan to me. Still – to revert to the original question – not sure about using an LED in the ignition warning light. Maybe with a generator, but not with an alternator. Can’t remember!

Simon

From: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz> 
Sent: 30 September 2022 10:37
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Gary, and Simon,

I bought some last year for my BN2 and tri-carb.  They are 12v LEDs in GREEN.  I can now easily see the direction indicator light in daylight.

Make sure your LED is green, and not white, as the light intensity tends to bleach out the green of the plastic case.

Cost me NZ $7   That’s ‘peanuts’ in any currency.

My next job is to fit an audible alarm so that I can hear when the indicator is on.   Ditto for leaving my lights on.

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2022 5:31 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Pretty sure that you can’t use LED.

Mine was dim too but I found that to be function of the lens in the dial which, in my case, was too thick. Maybe – as I was recently advised here – take a sheet of thin acetate and punch the appropriate size hole.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: 29 September 2022 16:32
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ignition warning light

Is there a brighter bulb available for the ignition warning lite that will fit a stock 100 socket & be relatively easy to see if it is on or off in day light? I don't care if the bulb is LED or incandescent. 

Gary Hodson

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not energise, and so no generation takes place.

Ian
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I hav=e had=C2=A0 LED instrument\generator(red) bulbs since 2009. =C2=A0</=p>

=C2=A0Works as intended like original incandescent l=amp. Lights up at low idle etc.

  </ =p>

Sent from Mail for Windows

  =

From: Ian Hey via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022= 8:36 AM
To: healeys at au=tox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an =alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the fiel=d coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils wil=l not energise, and so no generation takes place.

Ian

=  
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Seems to be an alternator thing.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Warren Dietz via Healeys
Sent: 30 September 2022 15:07
To: Ian Hey <rianhey at btinternet.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

I have had  LED instrument\generator(red) bulbs since 2009.  

 Works as intended like original incandescent lamp. Lights up at low idle etc.

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Ian Hey via Healeys
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2022 8:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ignition warning light

My understanding is that an LED is fine for a dynamo, but for an alternator the current generated by the warning light is what gets the field coils energised, and LEDs pull so little current that the field coils will not energise, and so no generation takes place.

Ian

 Does anyone know the type of original rivet that attaches the retainer flap (flap that attaches the curtain to the inner door panel with a tennax)? This is the rivet that goes through the steel bar sewn into the curtain material. Can't find a clear picture, but it appears to be a similar to the rivets that attach the battery cover door straps, although silver? And is there originally a fender washer used on the inside? Not sure if there was a difference over the years, but I believe these are the third type of curtains produced with the trim and interior access was made by an unattached material area at the bottom rear.Thanks in advance.  Shawn
The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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