[Healeys] Front Shocks stress

[Bob Spidell]

I cut slots in the base of the rubber bumpers, loosen the bolts a turn 
or so, and slide them in. They don't move around.


On 4/16/2022 5:36 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> Bob-agree, the (steel) block is used when building up the suspension.  
> However, I also use it to "protect" those rubber rebounds as well.  If 
> you crush them you cannot replace them in position. The shock tower 
> interferes, so that in order to replace them, you must remove the 
> upper suspension (like when rebuilding-spring compress , etc.).  They 
> don't do much except if you decide to fly over railroad tracks. That 
> will probably crush them as well. Bob was concerned that hanging the 
> suspension would cause damage. I think its best to not put that kind 
> of load on an old iron bucket. Just try using plain wood blocks-they 
> splinter to bits.  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 1:18:39PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress
>
> The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was at the 
> correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after replacing the 
> lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too often). If this 
> isn't done, the bushings could be in a bind/twisted, which would 
> likely cause them to degrade quickly and could affect suspension 
> geometry and handling. Beneficial side effects are a) keeping the bump 
> stops  from being crushed to oblivion when raising the car by the 
> chassis and, b) avoiding stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK, 
> 2in is the correct setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the 
> hardware store and found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that 
> were 2 inches long.
>
> The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert (there's a 
> brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in their 
> brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the 
> suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon bushes 
> affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower A-arm 
> rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing the lower 
> A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to caster. Anyone 
> know for sure?
>
> All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no adjustment 
> for camber or caster.
>
> * In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the steering.
>
>
> On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
>     Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf between
>     the shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop. If
>     you hang the suspension without the block, it will crush the bumper.
>
>     On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of 1-1/8"
>     plywood sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece of
>     wood. For the 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why
>     the book suggests you lift the front wheels from under the spring
>     plate, rather than any frame member. If you lift the car from the
>     cross member you need two blocks-one on each shock tower...Be sure
>     to remove them when you lower the car. If you forget and drive
>     away, they are probably out on the road somewhere. Hank
>
>     -----------------------------------------
>
>     From: "Bob Begani via Healeys"
>     To: healeys at autox.team.net
>     Cc:
>     Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM
>     Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress
>
>     I have been using my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the
>     trans and rear of the engine to install the new plate gasket with
>     lots of Right Stuff Permatex sealant and have just got the trans
>     back in. During this time, I would lower the car back on the tires
>     as one of you mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be
>     damaged by the weight of the tire if left to long on the lift.
>     Please remind me about the problem and how to use a wooden stick
>     and where to insert.
>
>     Pictures?
>
>     I hope to have the Healey on the road next week so I can see if
>     the oil leak problem has been solved for good.  Using Oil Dye
>     there was very little oil shown which may have been cause by not
>     torquing the plate bolts.  After torquing the right stuff squeezed
>     out in a few places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage
>     floor after a run.
>
>     Regards,
>
>     Bob Begani
>
>     BJ8 67
>
>
>
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