[Healeys] Front Shocks stress

[gradea1 at charter.net]

Bob-agree, the (steel) block is used when building up the suspension.
However, I also use it to "protect" those rubber rebounds as well. If
you crush them you cannot replace them in position. The shock tower
interferes, so that in order to replace them, you must remove the
upper suspension (like when rebuilding-spring compress , etc.). They
don't do much except if you decide to fly over railroad tracks. That
will probably crush them as well. Bob was concerned that hanging the
suspension would cause damage. I think its best to not put that kind
of load on an old iron bucket. Just try using plain wood blocks-they
splinter to bits. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 1:18:39PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress

 The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was at the
correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after replacing the
lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too often). If this
isn't done, the bushings could be in a bind/twisted, which would
likely cause them to degrade quickly and could affect suspension
geometry and handling. Beneficial side effects are a) keeping the bump
stops from being crushed to oblivion when raising the car by the
chassis and, b) avoiding stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK,
2in is the correct setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the
hardware store and found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that
were 2 inches long.

 The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert (there's a
brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in their
brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the
suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon bushes
affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower A-arm
rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing the lower
A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to caster. Anyone
know for sure?

 All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no adjustment
for camber or caster.

 * In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the steering.

On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
  Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf between the
shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop. If you hang
the suspension without the block, it will crush the bumper. 
 On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of 1-1/8" plywood
sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece of wood. For the
6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why the book suggests
you lift the front wheels from under the spring plate, rather than any
frame member. If you lift the car from the cross member you need two
blocks-one on each shock tower...Be sure to remove them when you lower
the car. If you forget and drive away, they are probably out on the
road somewhere. Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "Bob Begani via
Healeys"
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress

	I have been using my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the
trans and rear of the engine to install the new plate gasket with lots
of Right Stuff Permatex sealant and have just got the trans back in.
During this time, I would lower the car back on the tires as one of
you mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be damaged by the
weight of the tire if left to long on the lift. Please remind me about
the problem and how to use a wooden stick and where to insert. 

	Pictures? 

	I hope to have the Healey on the road next week so I can see if the
oil leak problem has been solved for good. Using Oil Dye there was
very little oil shown which may have been cause by not torquing the
plate bolts. After torquing the right stuff squeezed out in a few
places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage floor after a run. 

	Regards, 

	Bob Begani 

	BJ8 67   


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