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I cut slots in the base of the rubber bumpers, loosen the bolts a
turn or so, and slide them in. They don't move around.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2022 5:36 PM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net">gradea1@charter.net</a> wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:3637285b03310f99211344d68a4685fcb611aece@webmail">
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Bob-agree, the (steel) block is used when building up the
suspension. However, I also use it to "protect" those rubber
rebounds as well. If you crush them you cannot replace them in
position. The shock tower interferes, so that in order to replace
them, you must remove the upper suspension (like when
rebuilding-spring compress , etc.). They don't do much except if
you decide to fly over railroad tracks. That will probably crush
them as well. Bob was concerned that hanging the suspension would
cause damage. I think its best to not put that kind of load on an
old iron bucket. Just try using plain wood blocks-they splinter to
bits. Hank<br>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 1:18:39PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress<br>
<br>
The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was
at
the correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after
replacing the lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too
often). If this isn't done, the bushings could be in a
bind/twisted, which would likely cause them to degrade quickly
and
could affect suspension geometry and handling. Beneficial side
effects are a) keeping the bump stops from being crushed to
oblivion when raising the car by the chassis and, b) avoiding
stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK, 2in is the correct
setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the hardware store and
found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that were 2
inches
long.<br>
<br>
The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert
(there's
a brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in
their
brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the
suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon
bushes
affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower
A-arm rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing
the
lower A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to
caster.
Anyone know for sure?<br>
<br>
All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no
adjustment for camber or caster.<br>
<br>
* In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the
steering.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G
Leach
via Healeys wrote:<br>
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Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf
between
the shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop.
If you
hang the suspension without the block, it will crush the
bumper.
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<div>On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of
1-1/8"
plywood sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece
of wood.
For the 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why
the
book suggests you lift the front wheels from under the
spring
plate, rather than any frame member. If you lift the car
from the
cross member you need two blocks-one on each shock
tower...Be sure
to remove them when you lower the car. If you forget and
drive
away, they are probably out on the road somewhere. Hank<br>
<br>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Bob Begani via Healeys"<br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Cc:<br>
Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress<br>
<br>
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
have been using
my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the trans
and rear of
the engine to install the new plate gasket with lots
of Right Stuff
Permatex sealant and have just got the trans back in.
During
this time, I would lower the car back on the tires as
one of you
mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be
damaged by the
weight of the tire if left to long on the lift.
Please remind
me about the problem and how to use a wooden stick and
where to
insert.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Pictures?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
hope to have the
Healey on the road next week so I can see if the oil
leak problem
has been solved for good. Using Oil Dye there was
very little
oil shown which may have been cause by not torquing
the plate
bolts. After torquing the right stuff squeezed out in
a few
places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage floor
after a
run.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Regards,</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Bob
Begani</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">BJ8
67</span></p>
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