[Healeys] New Clutch query

m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Mon Sep 20 11:29:44 MDT 2021

Thanks for the extra detail Simon, looks like you have the process well in
hand.  I don't think you will know why the g'box would not snug up to the
rear plate unless you have it out again, especially since it went in OK the
previous times.  I have no explanation.  If you have to pump the clutch to
get a clean shift there is definitely air in the system.  A longer pushrod
will not help that, it will just position the piston in the slave cylinder
in a different place - the amount of movement will remain the same.


Good point from Bob on the helicoil for the slave cyl bolts,  Also, the
original bolts on mine did not extend all the way to the end of the threaded
holes, so I installed longer bolts that do go all the way, but do not
project into the bell housing as I believe there is little clearance between
the pressure plate and the inside of the housing and you don't want it
catching on the ends of long bolts!


FYI, the clutch issue I had a few years back was with a new Borg&Beck
clutch.  B&B was taken over by new ownership a few years ago (it could have
been quite a few) and the design of the clutch disc changed.  The change was
that on the originals, the springs that take up the torque were retained by
a partial cage (disc on left in attached photo).  In the new design they
were fully enclosed (disc on right).  This increased the thickness of the
centre of the clutch plate minimally.  However, it was enough that when I
fully depressed the clutch pedal, the arms (levers) on the pressure plate
fouled the spring cages on the clutch disc and made a hell of a racket.  In
the photo, you can see the marks in the fully enclosed spring housing on the
new design where it was hitting the arms of the pressure plate.   It worked
OK and the shifting was fine, unless I fully depressed the clutch pedal.  An
NOS clutch disk kindly supplied by Mike Salter fixed the issue.  


Let us know how it goes Simon.


Cheers, Mirek





From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
via Healeys
Sent: September 20, 2021 9:41 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] New Clutch query


Thank you very much for the replies. All food for thought barring one which
was just plain rude. Usual source.


One thing I should have mentioned earlier.....the lightened flywheel. On the
brief test drive I was most impressed. The car was more responsive and
seemed to accelerate quite a bit better. Not possible to be too thorough as
was concentrating on the clutch but first impressions are very favourable.
So, thanks for the input there.


As to the clutch.

1.	I didn't really think it at all likely that there was a running-in
period for clutches. I was just applying Sod's Law in reverse.
2.	By "difficult clutch", I meant that I could not engage gear without
an apparent clash of teeth unless I pumped the pedal several times. Hence
the bleeding and the query about the "longer push rod".
3.	On installation, I lined the clutch plate up with great care. I used
the plastic thing but did check alignment with my spare, original, shaft.
Particularly second time around. I cannot account for the reluctance to
slide onto the shaft. I've had the box out twice before and, yes, it did go
back in easily enough.
4.	The new clutch (3 piece kit) itself is precisely the same as the
original. Borg & Beck. Compared old with new on the counter at AHSpares.
5.	I followed B&B's destructions to the letter. Applied grease etcetc.
BMC manual was not particularly helpful as it rather harks back to the days
when clutches were serviceable items.
6.	The slave cylinder is OK. I serviced it when I put in the
clutch-bleeding extension pipe about a year ago and it's been fine ever
7.	Just to mention.the black, ribbed, rubber clutch pipe was renewed at
same time. 
8.	The 2 dowel bolts are correctly placed. Unlike previously when there
was only one but it had made no difference.
9.	The cutting the head off the slave cylinder's top bolt originated
from Norman Nock. He was always one of my top gurus so I thought it worth
serious consideration. Of course, getting the newly beheaded bolt back in
and tightened up with the appropriate locking goo would probably be more of
a pain than simply putting in the top bolt per normal. Actually, it wasn't
too bad this time around.

Apart from rebleeding clutch and checking out the slave cylinder, it looks
like it'll all have to come apart again. Unless someone's had an




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