[Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Mar 30 22:09:04 MDT 2021
One more thing ...
I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the shoe
standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are
usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from
Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into short
pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and you can
place a little grease on the end and expect it to stay there. I don't
know a source, the tubing looks like it could be small fuel line, but
it's only fiber with no rubber or other lining.
Bob
On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Bob,
> Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !
> I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the
> plates reversed as you did the first time.
> As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this
> issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what
> oil to use in your OD !
> I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd. pipe to
> avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever dislodged.
> I too will save your notes for next time...
> Tkx
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
> soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the
> dust cover that I think proves this is the correct order of
> installation.
>
> Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
> frustration:
>
> 1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
> cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
>
> 2) Insert cylinder into its slot
>
> 3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff,
> into the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
>
> 4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate
> from the outside
>
> 5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
> handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
> plate allows this)
>
> 6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into
> the slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it
> in; it would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its
> actuated state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from
> the flat plate (it might be possible to squeeze them together with
> a large set of channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the
> spring plate engage the notches on the flat plate.
>
> 7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
> around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge
> sliding under the plates (see vid).
>
> 8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
>
> Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality
> of aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from
> Moss are not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of
> a tough rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft
> plastic).
>
> Bob
>
> ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this
> job every decade or so, and have to start from scratch
> procedure-wise every time.
>
>
> On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>> Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As you say
>> it is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle
>> it again !
>> rg
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell
>> <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How
>> tight is
>> normal floating ?"
>>
>> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor
>> working on my
>> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual
>> explaining
>> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog
>> showing that
>> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed
>> above the
>> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever).
>> First, I
>> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the
>> spring plate
>> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move
>> freely--which enables
>> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust
>> boot had
>> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the
>> installation; i.e. the
>> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat
>> plate
>> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and
>> easily, which
>> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the
>> rubber boot,
>> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the
>> flat plate
>> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
>> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>>
>> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
>> otherwise
>> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the
>> cylinder could be
>> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
>> non-retracting
>> problem.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
>> > BJ8 ph2.
>> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake
>> shoe adjustment.
>> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
>> currently it
>> > is almost vertical.
>> > Background:
>> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi.
>> Almost no sign
>> > of any wear yet.
>> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
>> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes
>> are adjusted
>> > tight.
>> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight
>> brake drag.
>> > All OK so far.
>> >
>> > Here is the problem:
>> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my
>> hand it
>> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it
>> should.
>> > However when released brakes do not fully retract, and
>> shoes bind and
>> > not at the same setting that started off with.
>> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in
>> not quite
>> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
>> > Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the
>> adjuster
>> > back and forth in the freeplay zone.
>> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe
>> operation.
>> >
>> > My thoughts :
>> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of
>> the shoes ?
>> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
>> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
>> > See photo of RR.
>> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight
>> is normal
>> > floating ?
>> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>> >
>> > All suggestions appreciated
>> > rg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
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