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One more thing ...<br>
<br>
I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the
shoe standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and
are usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a
set from Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing
cut into short pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the
standoffs, and you can place a little grease on the end and expect
it to stay there. I don't know a source, the tubing looks like it
could be small fuel line, but it's only fiber with no rubber or
other lining. <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace
wrote:<br>
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<div>Bob,</div>
<div>Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !</div>
<div>I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing
out and the plates reversed as you did the first time.<br>
</div>
<div>As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised
that this issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here -
compared to say what oil to use in your OD !</div>
<div>I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the
hyd. pipe to avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake
lever dislodged. <br>
</div>
<div>I too will save your notes for next time...</div>
<div>Tkx</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48
PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete
with 80s soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the
bevel on the dust cover that I think proves this is the
correct order of installation.<br>
<br>
Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
frustration:<br>
<br>
1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the
adjuster cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake
lever pivots on<br>
<br>
2) Insert cylinder into its slot<br>
<br>
3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the
diff, into the slot on the cylinder from above as manual
shows<br>
<br>
4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the
backplate from the outside<br>
<br>
5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide
the handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder
(the spring plate allows this)<br>
<br>
6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches
into the slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I
tapped it in; it would help if someone held the handbrake
lever out in its actuated state to prevent the spring plate
from retreating from the flat plate (it might be possible to
squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks).
Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate engage the
notches on the flat plate.<br>
<br>
7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever
and around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled
edge sliding under the plates (see vid).<br>
<br>
8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake
material)<br>
<br>
Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the
quality of aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers
I got from Moss are not only molded and cut perfectly, but
seem to be made of a tough rubber that should actually hold
up (it's almost a soft plastic).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do
this job every decade or so, and have to start from scratch
procedure-wise every time.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Yes thank you; that sounds like a good
explanation. As you say it is a bear of a job and just
working up some stamina to tackle it again !</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Mar 29, 2021
at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">re: "I note that
the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is <br>
normal floating ?"<br>
<br>
I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy
floor working on my <br>
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop
manual explaining <br>
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss
catalog showing that <br>
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be
installed above the <br>
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake
lever). First, I <br>
installed the flat plate against the backing plate
with the spring plate <br>
on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move
freely--which enables <br>
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the
rubber dust boot had <br>
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the
installation; i.e. the <br>
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under
the flat plate <br>
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly
and easily, which <br>
makes sense because there is less contact area, but
the rubber boot, <br>
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under
the flat plate <br>
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the
cylinder <br>
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.<br>
<br>
Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and
easily; otherwise <br>
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the
cylinder could be <br>
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain
your non-retracting <br>
problem.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:<br>
> BJ8 ph2.<br>
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for
rear brake shoe adjustment.<br>
> All part of a project to get handbrake working
properly - currently it <br>
> is almost vertical.<br>
> Background:<br>
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than
4k mi. Almost no sign <br>
> of any wear yet.<br>
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.<br>
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when
brakes are adjusted <br>
> tight.<br>
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel
slight brake drag.<br>
> All OK so far.<br>
><br>
> Here is the problem:<br>
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with
screwdriver or my hand it <br>
> moves with initial free play then clamps the
shoes as it should. <br>
> However when released brakes do not fully
retract, and shoes bind and <br>
> not at the same setting that started off with.<br>
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to
hang up, in not quite <br>
> the off position. Both wheels are the same.<br>
> Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by
rattling the adjuster <br>
> back and forth in the freeplay zone.<br>
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see
the shoe operation.<br>
><br>
> My thoughts :<br>
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the
inside of the shoes ?<br>
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference
normal ?<br>
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the
shoes/springs ?<br>
> See photo of RR.<br>
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate.
How tight is normal <br>
> floating ?<br>
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips
incorrectly ?<br>
><br>
> All suggestions appreciated<br>
> rg<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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