[Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

Wed Jul 7 10:11:00 MDT 2021

This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of the cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you need to do is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the backing plate.

David Nock
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From: Healey 
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes. 

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.

  BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).

  bs

  On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:

    Hi Bob, 

    No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
    So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works fine), correct?

    Thanks in advance

    On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

      Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they're fine.

      On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:

        I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
        Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not retracting properly.
          Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
        So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?

          Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?

          Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.

          Thanks in advance,

        Neil

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