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<DIV>This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of the
cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you need to do
is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the backing
plate.</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">David
Nock<BR>healeydoc@sbcglobal.net<BR>209 948
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com<BR><BR>Help us have our Founder Norman
Nock inducteed into the <BR>British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for
your favorites <BR>by visiting the site
at.<BR>www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org<BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=67healey@gmail.com>Healey</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=bspidell@comcast.net>Bob Spidell</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=healeys@autox.team.net>healeys@autox.team.net</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake</DIV></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr>Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And
thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel cylinder
again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. And
then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a "Sunday job"
so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Neil</DIV></DIV>
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<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell
<<A>bspidell@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant
got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent
withdrawal of the piston.<BR><BR>BTW, from your description, your rear shoes
probably have at least 20K miles of material left. I've never had to change
shoes in my Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot
completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been
soaked).<BR><BR>bs<BR><BR><BR>
<DIV>On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">Hi Bob,
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously
moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.</DIV>
<DIV>So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
fine), correct?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<A
target=_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">Did
you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I just
replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they seemed
to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<BR><BR><BR>On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey
wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">I
had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except
that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were
not right.<BR>Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
cylinder was not retracting properly.<BR> Group wisdom from the
internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except
there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed
both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side
spring is ok btw.<BR>So what I don't understand is - if the inside of
the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<BR><BR> Should
I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from Moss?
(yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the
TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?<BR><BR>
Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate
underneath.<BR><BR> Thanks in
advance,<BR><BR>Neil<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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