[Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

[Healey]

Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks
for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel
cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally
with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will
be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line
> (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant
> got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent
> withdrawal of the piston.
>
> BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K
> miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to
> wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or
> differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
>
> bs
>
>
> On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
>  No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously
> moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
>  So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
> fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
>> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
>> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
>> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
>> springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
>> FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
>> Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
>>
>>
>> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>>
>>>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>>>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>>> retracting properly.
>>>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>>>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>>
>>>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>>
>>>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>>
>>>   Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Neil
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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