[Healeys] Front Bearings

[Bob Spidell]

It certainly doesn't hurt to re-check end-play, even if 'nothing 
changed;' the DPO--including yourself--who last did them may not have 
gotten them exactly correct, and even a slight bit of wear-in could 
change the depth.  End-play can/should be checked and adjusted dry or 
with just a light oil on the bearings--grease gets messy and could be 
contaminated in the process--then clean them thoroughly before packing 
with grease and reinstalling.

I torqued my BJ8's bearings to 'spec' once, and one of the tabbed 
lock-washers spun and made a noise like a bearing failing (until it 
wedged itself against the shims). Now, I keep my torque wrench in the 
drawer and torque to the last slot on the castellated nut that a 
1/2-inch breaker bar and my 'armstrong' driver will allow. I don't think 
there's much risk of overtorquing the nut--what is it, 3/4 inch?--and, 
like a lot of aftermarket parts the tab on the inside of the washer may 
not be a precise fit in the slot. I torque the nut until the hole in the 
axle and a slot on the nut will /just/ fit a cotter, so the cotter will 
resist any turning of the nut from the get-go; any gap could allow not 
insignificant release of the nut's load.

Bob

On 1/24/2021 9:26 AM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote:
> The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow you 
> to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter (splitpin).  If 
> you did not change the bearings (just repacked them) then there is no 
> need to measure...replace the original shims that were removed. IF you 
> put in new bearings, then you should measure the gap, as described in 
> the workshop manual, and adjust them as needed.
>
> In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to installing 
> the caliper, it should turn freely.
> Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube, especially if you have disc 
> brakes. Clean, check for wear (See article in Jan. issue of AH Mag) 
> and lightly lube the splines of the hub and wheel either with the same 
> grease or anti seize grease. Check this flex brake hose while there, 
> for cracks or bulging. Most info from manual, rest from doing it...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "BJ8Healeys"
> To: "Healey List"
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings
>
> No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec on
> installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R.
> Lindsay
> Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings
>
> I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need to
> re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>

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