[Healeys] Front Bearings

[gradea1 at charter.net]

The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow you
to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter (splitpin). If
you did not change the bearings (just repacked them) then there is no
need to measure...replace the original shims that were removed. IF you
put in new bearings, then you should measure the gap, as described in
the workshop manual, and adjust them as needed.
In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to installing
the caliper, it should turn freely.Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to
lube, especially if you have disc brakes. Clean, check for wear (See
article in Jan. issue of AH Mag) and lightly lube the splines of the
hub and wheel either with the same grease or anti seize grease. Check
this flex brake hose while there, for cracks or bulging. Most info
from manual, rest from doing it...Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "BJ8Healeys" 
To: "Healey List"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings

 No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec on
 installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there.

 Steve Byers
 HBJ8L/36666
 BJ8 Registry
 AHCA Delegate at Large
 Havelock, NC USA

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R.
 Lindsay
 Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM
 To: Healey List
 Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings

 I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I need
to
 re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go?

 Price Lindsay
 67 BJ8

 Sent from my iPhone
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