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It certainly doesn't hurt to re-check end-play, even if 'nothing
changed;' the DPO--including yourself--who last did them may not
have gotten them exactly correct, and even a slight bit of wear-in
could change the depth. End-play can/should be checked and adjusted
dry or with just a light oil on the bearings--grease gets messy and
could be contaminated in the process--then clean them thoroughly
before packing with grease and reinstalling.<br>
<br>
I torqued my BJ8's bearings to 'spec' once, and one of the tabbed
lock-washers spun and made a noise like a bearing failing (until it
wedged itself against the shims). Now, I keep my torque wrench in
the drawer and torque to the last slot on the castellated nut that a
1/2-inch breaker bar and my 'armstrong' driver will allow. I don't
think there's much risk of overtorquing the nut--what is it, 3/4
inch?--and, like a lot of aftermarket parts the tab on the inside of
the washer may not be a precise fit in the slot. I torque the nut
until the hole in the axle and a slot on the nut will <i>just</i>
fit a cotter, so the cotter will resist any turning of the nut from
the get-go; any gap could allow not insignificant release of the
nut's load.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/24/2021 9:26 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net">gradea1@charter.net</a> wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:2ecc1c19df768c66f48047eaa610e0d376f88bef@webmail">
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The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow
you to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter
(splitpin). If you did not change the bearings (just repacked
them) then there is no need to measure...replace the original
shims that were removed. IF you put in new bearings, then you
should measure the gap, as described in the workshop manual, and
adjust them as needed.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to
installing the caliper, it should turn freely.</div>
<div>Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube, especially if you
have disc brakes. Clean, check for wear (See article in Jan.
issue of AH Mag) and lightly lube the splines of the hub and
wheel either with the same grease or anti seize grease. Check
this flex brake hose while there, for cracks or bulging. Most
info from manual, rest from doing it...Hank<br>
<br>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>
To: "Healey List"<br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings<br>
<br>
No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to
spec
on<br>
installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there.<br>
<br>
Steve Byers<br>
HBJ8L/36666<br>
BJ8 Registry<br>
AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
Havelock, NC USA<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On
Behalf Of
R.<br>
Lindsay<br>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings<br>
<br>
I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do
I
need to<br>
re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go?<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8<br>
</sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>
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