<html><body>The torque spec is 40-70 ft. lbs. The reason for that is to allow you to get lined up with a hole in the axle for the cotter (splitpin). If you did not change the bearings (just repacked them) then there is no need to measure...replace the original shims that were removed. IF you put in new bearings, then you should measure the gap, as described in the workshop manual, and adjust them as needed.<div><br></div><div>In any event, when the wheel is all back together, prior to installing the caliper, it should turn freely.</div><div>Use Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube, especially if you have disc brakes. Clean, check for wear (See article in Jan. issue of AH Mag) and lightly lube the splines of the hub and wheel either with the same grease or anti seize grease. Check this flex brake hose while there, for cracks or bulging. Most info from manual, rest from doing it...Hank<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>To: "Healey List"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Saturday January 23 2021 9:20:27PM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Bearings<br><br>
No, you don't need to re-torque the nuts. They are torqued to spec
on<br>
installation and the cotter pin inserted to keep them there.<br><br>
Steve Byers<br>
HBJ8L/36666<br>
BJ8 Registry<br>
AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
Havelock, NC USA<br><br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
R.<br>
Lindsay<br>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2021 9:31 PM<br>
To: Healey List<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Bearings<br><br>
I changed the front bearings on my BJ8 about 500 miles ago. Do I
need to<br>
re-torc the nuts at some time soon or let it go?<br><br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8<br><br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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