[Healeys] wheel

[Tom Mitchell]

One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy
and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of
expanding the tube.
I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't
notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator.
Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt

Tom

Dr. Tom Mitchell

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> "Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back
> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub."
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition
> of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new
> ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube.
> This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the
> wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and
> renewing them as I did.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> wrote:
>
>> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to
>> plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box.  When I’m ready to
>> run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box,
>> tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through
>> the stator, and pull them through.  It’s messy.  Unless you REALLY need to
>> remove the wheel, just work around it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard
>> Kahn
>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM
>> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel
>>
>>
>>
>> Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube.
>> You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible,
>> you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected
>> after you get the trafficator off.
>>
>> I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just
>> "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off.  Just be sure you note
>> which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rich
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel
>>
>>
>>
>> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator,
>> which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to
>> disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the
>> movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the
>> harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the
>> wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think
>> Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most
>> of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing
>> with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to
>> evaporate.
>>
>> Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back
>> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>>
>> How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?  And how
>> much trouble to put it back?  I just want it out of the way temporarily.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>
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