<div dir="auto">One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of expanding the tube. <div dir="auto">I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator.</div><div dir="auto">Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt<br><br>Tom</div><div dir="auto"><br><div data-smartmail="gmail_signature" dir="auto">Dr. Tom Mitchell </div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px">"Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub."</span><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px">----------------------------------------------------------</span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px">I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube.</span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px">This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing them as I did.</span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px"><br></span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px">Best--Michael Oritt</span></div><div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:16px"><br></span></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele <<a href="mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeybruce@roadrunner.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang="EN-US"><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I’m ready to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the stator, and pull them through. It’s messy. Unless you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><div><div style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif"> Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard Kahn<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM<br><b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>; <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] wheel<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black">Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the trafficator off.<u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black">I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times.<u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black"><u></u> <u></u></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black">Rich<u></u><u></u></span></p></div><div class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><hr size="2" width="98%" align="center"></div><div id="m_7752059856981993471gmail-m_-3332687527899881672divRplyFwdMsg"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:black"> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] wheel</span> <u></u><u></u></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"> <u></u><u></u></p></div></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12pt">The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate.<br><br>Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub.<br><br>Bob<u></u><u></u></p><div><p class="MsoNormal">On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:<u></u><u></u></p></div><blockquote style="margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt"><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma,sans-serif">How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily. </span><u></u><u></u></p><p><span style="font-family:Tahoma,sans-serif">Mike</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p></blockquote><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p></div></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
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