[Healeys] wheel

[Michael Oritt]

"Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back
through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub."
----------------------------------------------------------
I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition
of the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new
ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube.
This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the
wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and
renewing them as I did.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to
> plug the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box.  When I’m ready to
> run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box,
> tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through
> the stator, and pull them through.  It’s messy.  Unless you REALLY need to
> remove the wheel, just work around it.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Kahn
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel
>
>
>
> Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You
> can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you
> may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after
> you get the trafficator off.
>
> I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just
> "unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off.  Just be sure you note
> which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times.
>
>
>
> Rich
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] wheel
>
>
>
> The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator,
> which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to
> disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the
> movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the
> harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the
> wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think
> Plan A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most
> of the fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing
> with a lot of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to
> evaporate.
>
> Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back
> through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub.
>
> Bob
>
> On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>
> How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?  And how
> much trouble to put it back?  I just want it out of the way temporarily.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
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