[Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals

Mon Feb 22 15:50:18 MST 2021

 I use Kopr-Shield when assembling Lucas bullet connectors.  Did this 21 years ago with my Bugeye and not one problem with connections corroding yet.  Never hardens and does not allow corrosion in electrical joints while while aiding conductivity.  It is also used as an anti-sieze compound.

THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound

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THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...

THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound
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Mike MacLean

    On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  

  That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to mind).

 I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).

 So, Alan, what did you decide?

 On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:

 Bob wrote:  "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber." -------------------------------------------- 50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.   Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils? 
  Best--Michael Oritt  
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching."

 I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.

 Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?

 On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:

  Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching. 
  M

  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine." 
  About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain. 
  Best--Michael Oritt  
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one 
 piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the 
 tailpipe.

 By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.

 Bob

 On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
 > All -
 >
 > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came 
 > off the upper part of the valve guide.
 >
 > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one 
 > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, 
 > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried 
 > but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts 
 > getting into the oil.
 >
 > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
 >
 > Best,
 >
 > Alan
 >
 >

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