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        <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I use Kopr-Shield when assembling Lucas bullet connectors.  Did this 21 years ago with my Bugeye and not one problem with connections corroding yet.  Never hardens and does not allow corrosion in electrical joints while while aiding conductivity.  It is also used as an anti-sieze compound.<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" class="enhancr_card_4080093625">THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound</a></div><div><br></div><div id="ydp3b4106f3enhancr_card_4080093625" class="ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-card ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-not-allow-cover ydp3b4106f3ymail-preserve-class ydp3b4106f3ymail-preserve-style" style="max-width:400px;font-family:YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" data-url="https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" data-type="YENHANCER" data-size="MEDIUM" contenteditable="false"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" style="text-decoration-line: none !important; text-decoration-style: solid !important; text-decoration-color: currentcolor !important; color: rgb(0, 0, 0) !important;" class="ydp3b4106f3yahoo-enhancr-cardlink" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><table class="ydp3b4106f3card-wrapper ydp3b4106f3yahoo-ignore-table" style="max-width:400px" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td width="400"><table class="ydp3b4106f3card ydp3b4106f3yahoo-ignore-table" style="max-width:400px;border-width:1px;border-style:solid;border-color:rgb(224, 228, 233);border-radius:2px" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td><table class="ydp3b4106f3card-info ydp3b4106f3yahoo-ignore-table" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); background-repeat: repeat; background-attachment: scroll; background-image: none; background-size: auto; position: relative; z-index: 2; width: 100%; max-width: 400px; border-radius: 0px 0px 2px 2px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(224, 228, 233);" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td style="background-color:#ffffff;padding:16px 0 16px 12px;vertical-align:top;border-radius:0 0 0 2px"><img class="ydp3b4106f3card-object-1 ydp3b4106f3yahoo-ignore-inline-image ydp3b4106f3ymail-preserve-class" src="https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/amazon.png" style="min-width:36px;margin-top:3px" height="36"></td><td style="vertical-align:middle;padding:12px 24px 16px 12px;width:99%;font-family:YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;border-radius:0 0 2px 0"><h2 class="ydp3b4106f3card-title" style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px 0px 6px; font-family: YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(38, 40, 42); max-width: 314px;">THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...</h2><p class="ydp3b4106f3card-description" style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0px; color: rgb(151, 155, 167);">THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound</p></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></a></div></div><div class="ydpf4484543yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Mike MacLean<br></div><div><br></div>
        
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                    On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
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                <div><div id="yiv0473945703"><div>
    That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
    filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
    ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same
    type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
    silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust
    can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
    mind).<br clear="none">
    <br clear="none">
    I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium
    chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
    a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
    205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br clear="none">
    <br clear="none">
    So, Alan, what did you decide?<br clear="none">
    <br clear="none">
    <br clear="none">
    <div class="yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id="yiv0473945703yqtfd33266"><div class="yiv0473945703moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt
      wrote:<br clear="none">
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      </blockquote></div></div><div class="yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id="yiv0473945703yqtfd48785"><div><div dir="ltr">
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><span style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">Bob wrote:  </span><font color="#0000ff">"I'm surprised they lasted this long--if
            they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a
            rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a
            petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less
            antagonistic to rubber."</font></div>
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div>
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">50 to
            75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.  </font></div>
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Maybe
            we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font></div>
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff"><br clear="none">
          </font></div>
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Best--Michael
            Oritt</font></div>
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      <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
        <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47
          PM Bob Spidell <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
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        <blockquote class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
          <div> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite
            life which originals are now reaching."<br clear="none">
            <br clear="none">
            I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
            pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't
            lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or
            oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br clear="none">
            <br clear="none">
            Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the
            metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises
            transferring an original plate to one of their newer
            replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?<br clear="none">
            <br clear="none">
            <br clear="none">
            <div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys
              wrote:<br clear="none">
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="ltr">
                <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="font-family:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">Until fairly
                  recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
                  of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but
                  the engine I recently disassembled had one that was
                  completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original
                  tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
                  definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
                <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="font-family:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;"><br clear="none">
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                <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="font-family:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">M<br clear="none">
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              <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
                <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021
                  at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
                  wrote:<br clear="none">
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                <blockquote class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
                  <div dir="ltr">
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">In the string about
                      rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By
                      no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
                      of an engine."</div>
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear="none">
                    </div>
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">About a year back I
                      dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil
                      pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
                      very hard black plastic distributed throughout the
                      sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
                      could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet
                      there it was.  After thinking about it further I
                      decided that it could only have been the remains
                      of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure
                      enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
                      the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
                      pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and
                      tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a
                      chattering sound that had been appearing at
                      certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic
                      rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear="none">
                    </div>
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
                  </div>
                  <br clear="none">
                  <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
                    <div class="yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Feb 21,
                      2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
                      wrote:<br clear="none">
                    </div>
                    <blockquote class="yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">Most mechanics
                      favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
                      they're one <br clear="none">
                      piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires
                      blue smoke from the <br clear="none">
                      tailpipe.<br clear="none">
                      <br clear="none">
                      By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
                      inside of an engine.<br clear="none">
                      <br clear="none">
                      Bob<br clear="none">
                      <br clear="none">
                      <br clear="none">
                      On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
                      wrote:<br clear="none">
                      > All -<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust
                      valves and this seal came <br clear="none">
                      > off the upper part of the valve guide.<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      > It seems this is an original style valve seal
                      shroud which no one <br clear="none">
                      > sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove
                      it and chuck it, <br clear="none">
                      > correct?  It's already half disintegrated and
                      I'm not really worried <br clear="none">
                      > but would prefer to not  put it back on and
                      have old rubber parts <br clear="none">
                      > getting into the oil.<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      > Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one
                      seems to sell these.<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      > Best,<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      > Alan<br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                      ><br clear="none">
                    </blockquote>
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