[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 220
Jeffrey Lewis
jmolewis at yahoo.com
Sat Jun 13 06:00:55 MDT 2020
Brakes -leak
It sounds to me like you have a leak in the brake Master Cylinder. Look for brake fluid under the floor mats on the left side of the car.
On Saturday, June 13, 2020, 06:55:10 AM EDT, <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Brakes (Bob Spidell)
2. Brakes PBR (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
3. Re: Cold Box Installation (John Harper)
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2020 23:34:27 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brakes
Message-ID: <972b8e5b-c1c0-d56a-be11-e2a5af0cfea4 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
You could always try rebuilding the servo and, if it works, great, if
not, install the imposter.
I did a lot of research before I rebuilt mine--OK, I read this list and
a couple forums--and it appeared the most common issue was with the
vacuum canister. Specifically, the rubber tube that is used to backstop
the leather seal in the canister was sold too long--intentionally--and
needed to be trimmed to an appropriate length lest the piston get stuck
in the canister. Also, the canister is lined with a dry lubricant that
wears, and I found a suitable replacement (although in hindsight I think
the original dry lubricant was still serviceable).? It's been a while,
maybe 10 years, but IIRC the canister had about 150K miles on it, and
both cylinders on the servo body were in serviceable condition (no
re-sleeving required). One thing that's hard to replace--Fred, if you
decide to buy new, I'll pay for shipping if you'll send your valve to
me--is the vacuum check valve; it's been NLA forever (my car came with a
plastic aftermarket valve; which looked grossly out of place in my
engine bay; I got a good used one from BCS).
Perry, I don't think PBE is a franchise; the one-and-only is in San
Jose, CA. I took the booster for my dad's '46 Chevy 2-ton truck there a
few years ago; great guys but the shop is an unholy mess (BF
everywhere). The Hispanic kid that worked on my dad's servo showed me
his work; he was very proud of it and had a Girling from a Jag apart on
the bench. The first time my dad tried out the booster he said the
brakes almost sent him through the windshield. I drove the truck today
and the brakes still work great. PBE stands behind--or in front?--of
their work; I got the impression they know that the failure rate is not
nonexistent.
I haven't found DoT5 to be any more difficult to bleed than glycols, but
you have to be careful not to aerate it in the process. To be sure, a
bleeder on the servo would be helpful (as long as it's not like the
bleeder on the clutch slave).
Bob
On 6/12/2020 9:35 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32 nuts
> and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
> IMHO Bob's? 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic ??.
> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your
> first few attempts.
> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the
> dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly
> still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount
> brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
> M
>
> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
> will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
> conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the
> intake
> manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this is
> the
> 'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister on
> the
> servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is
> activated
> by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the
> canister to
> assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>
> You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
> others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
> success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
> replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop in'
> replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
> effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
> section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
> cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the theory
> and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some
> cogitating
> to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>
> If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as
> mine; I
> have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to
> check the
> rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had
> bled them
> before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch
> somehow on
> the bleed.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8.? I am new to
> this BJ8
> > with boosted?brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years.? I
> don't
> > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk
> manual.
> >
> > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am
> losing
> > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent leaks
> that
> > I can see.? There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at each
> wheel
> > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would
> indicate
> > a leak.? I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid
> anywhere.
> >
> > Is it possible that the fluid?is leaking into the brake
> booster?? How
> > am I able to check that out?? If this is the case, can the
> booster be
> > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who.? If fluid is leaking
> into
> > the booster, is it? better to simply replace the booster and who
> is a
> > good source?
> >
> > Something always?happens before what promises to be a great
> sunny weekend.
> >
> > Thanks for any help,
> >
> > Fred
>
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:56 +0100
From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brakes PBR
Message-ID: <000001d64167$ffc4c1d0$ff4e4570$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi,
I forget where & with whom this started but, when I installed my PBR, I took
copious notes to which he's welcome. And anyone else for that matter.
I've just been to the garage and looked at my Girling, which was still
working after I rebuilt it. It's actually sitting in the PBR's carton. So,
to the point, the Girling is still attached to its mounting brackets.
Thus, the PBR's brackets bolt straight on as direct replacements to the
Girling's. I don't recall there being any issues beyond the usual
ones..access, not having multi-jointed wrists etcetc.
Simon
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2020 10:49:54 +0100
From: John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
To: Ray Juncal <healeyray at yahoo.com>
Cc: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, "Patrick & Caroline
Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>, Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Box Installation
Message-ID:
<CAL1Oyxe+vikhhCqZivFPYMm2eJoOVgZ0xPGVOVNCwUJycof9EA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Ray
Mine has a different angle bracket fitted. It is about 2 inches wide at the
top where it bolts to the shroud. The upright support is bent back .
My 100 Le Mans was converted when it was quite young at the factory so it
may be that it was produced by the DHMoC. I have supplied other owners who
were fitting the Le Mans kits with accurate copies.
I don't know how authentic this bracket might be other than it was fitted
when the Le Mans upgrade was carried out at the factory.
Best regards
On Sat, 13 Jun 2020 at 06:01, Ray Juncal via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:
> Charlie
> Here's what I did. If you leave out the brace it would pass as factory
> but probably not dead on. I made it from photos and the dimensions on the
> car. The first step is to bend the vertical support back toward the wheel
> well. I cut a notch and welded it but the factory just bent it. I made it
> out of 16 gauge mild steel. ( about 1/16" ) The slotted holes are 1 1/4" on
> center. If this is beyond your abilities any sheet metal shop can make it
> for you. You should probably make a test part with some stiff card board to
> get everything right. Let me know if any of this is not clear.
> Hope this helps.
> Ray Juncal
>
> On Friday, June 12, 2020, 6:59:03 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
>
>
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--
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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