[Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

[Robert Begani]

Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program.  The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job.

 

Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan.  I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot.  However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works.  But, still the temperature rises

Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe.

 

Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting.  Will keep you all informed of the progress.

 

Bob Begani

67  BJ8

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

 

I have a BJ8 with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- Texas Cooler fan
- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

... and a BN2/100M with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- OEM art deco fan
- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.

FWIW

Bob

 

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