[Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Jan 14 12:41:06 MST 2020
I have a BJ8 with:
- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- Texas Cooler fan
- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly
tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold
... and a BN2/100M with:
- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- OEM art deco fan
- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on
'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only
Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool
days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over
200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long
grade.
FWIW
Bob
On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> "Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem,
> who knows?"
>
> Bob that has perplexed me for decades but certainly seems to be reality.
> Good luck with your modifications ... I have always found that
> additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference.
>
> M
>
> On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, <rfbegani at gmail.com
> <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool
> winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees
> and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph. Great
> for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.
> However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough
> cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and
> have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only
> up. So the next step is to re-core the radiator. The local
> radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core
> using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling
> capacity. This is a SKI purchase. Spend the Kids Inheritance.
> Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers
> to stop vapor lock.
>
> What do you think about Push and Pull? Take off the engine fan?
>
> By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed,
> everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to
> bring it up to specifications. He knows what to do. The only
> modification is the 20 over pistons.
>
> Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem,
> who knows?
>
> Bob
>
> *From:* Perry <healeyguy at aol.com <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
> *To:* Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core
> tubes to theexisting radiator
>
> Bob
>
> With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the
> car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock
> radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
> for Windows 10
>
> *From: *Robert Begani <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
> *To: *'Perry' <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core
> tubes to theexisting radiator
>
> Hi Perry:
>
> I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered
> by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator. As a
> pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low
> speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade
> fan on the engine. As I was searching overheating problems, one
> reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against
> each other.
>
> Bob
>
>
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