[Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Jan 14 12:41:06 MST 2020


I have a BJ8 with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- Texas Cooler fan
- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly 
tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

... and a BN2/100M with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- OEM art deco fan
- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 
'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool 
days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 
200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long 
grade.

FWIW

Bob



On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> "Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, 
> who knows?"
>
> Bob that has perplexed me for decades but certainly seems to be reality.
> Good luck with your modifications  ... I  have always found that 
> additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference.
>
> M
>
> On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, <rfbegani at gmail.com 
> <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool
>     winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees
>     and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great
>     for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.
>     However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough
>     cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and
>     have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only
>     up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local
>     radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core
>     using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling
>     capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance. 
>     Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers
>     to stop vapor lock.
>
>     What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?
>
>     By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed,
>     everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to
>     bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only
>     modification is the 20 over pistons.
>
>     Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem,
>     who knows?
>
>     Bob
>
>     *From:* Perry <healeyguy at aol.com <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>>
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
>     *To:* Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>>
>     *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core
>     tubes to theexisting radiator
>
>     Bob
>
>     With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the
>     car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock
>     radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.
>
>     Perry
>
>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>     for Windows 10
>
>     *From: *Robert Begani <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>
>     *Sent: *Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
>     *To: *'Perry' <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
>     *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core
>     tubes to theexisting radiator
>
>     Hi Perry:
>
>     I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered
>     by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a
>     pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low
>     speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade
>     fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one
>     reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against
>     each other.
>
>     Bob
>
>

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