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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program. The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan. I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot. However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works. But, still the temperature rises<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting. Will keep you all informed of the progress.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Bob Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>67 BJ8<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM<br><b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I have a BJ8 with:<br><br>- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core<br>- Texas Cooler fan<br>- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat<br>- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold<br><br>... and a BN2/100M with:<br><br>- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core<br>- OEM art deco fan<br>- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat<br>- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only<br><br>Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.<br><br>FWIW<br><br>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>