[Healeys] Replacing a choke cable

[Michael Salter]

Hi Fred, I admire your union nut idea which, as you say, will make it a lot
easier to re-tighten the choke in the wood dash.
I had forgotten that many years ago I wrote a blog posting on that very
subject which may be of help to others.
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/

M

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 10:15 AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly
> in the dash of my BJ8.  I thank everyone who responded with some great
> helpful advice.  This is what I did.
>
> I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly
> straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable
> hole.  I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it,
> and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath.  Those kinks
> created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long
> assembly.
>
> I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash. I followed one
> responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it
> onto the coat hanger behind the dash.  This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded
> it's full length.  Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger.  The
> M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash
> choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash.
>
> I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger.  It
> was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back
> thru the firewall to the block.  The two M12 washers were now inside the
> recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right
> in line behind them.  Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a
> 17MM stubby wrench.  A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one.
>
> Success!  The entire cable assembly was in the dash, union nut tight, thru
> the firewall, and inserted into the choke block.  While I was at it, I also
> replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.
>
> I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent
> possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables
> moved very smoothly.  The chokes actually snap back into the off position.
>
> I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash.
> The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because
> of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the
> tach hole.  This union nut eliminates all the other ideas of modified
> sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down
> under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7 deceased
> 66 BJ8
>
>
>
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