[Healeys] Replacing a choke cable

[Fred Wescoe]

Listers,

I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly in
the dash of my BJ8.  I thank everyone who responded with some great helpful
advice.  This is what I did.

I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly
straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable
hole.  I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it,
and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath.  Those kinks
created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long
assembly.

I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash. I followed one
responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it
onto the coat hanger behind the dash.  This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded
it's full length.  Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger.  The
M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash
choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash.

I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger.  It
was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back
thru the firewall to the block.  The two M12 washers were now inside the
recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right
in line behind them.  Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a
17MM stubby wrench.  A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one.

Success!  The entire cable assembly was in the dash, union nut tight, thru
the firewall, and inserted into the choke block.  While I was at it, I also
replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.

I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent
possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables
moved very smoothly.  The chokes actually snap back into the off position.

I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash.
The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because
of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the
tach hole.  This union nut eliminates all the other ideas of modified
sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down
under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.

Fred
63 BJ7 deceased
66 BJ8
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