<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Fred, I admire your union nut idea which, as you say, will make it a lot easier to re-tighten the choke in the wood dash.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I had forgotten that many years ago I wrote a blog posting on that very subject which may be of help to others.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><a href="https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/">https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/</a></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 10:15 AM Fred Wescoe <<a href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Listers,<div><br></div><div>I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly in the dash of my BJ8. I thank everyone who responded with some great helpful advice. This is what I did.</div><div><br></div><div>I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable hole. I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it, and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath. Those kinks created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long assembly. </div><div><br></div><div>
I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash.
I followed one responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it onto the coat hanger behind the dash. This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded it's full length. Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger. The M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash. </div><div><br></div><div>I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger. It was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back thru the firewall to the block. The two M12 washers were now inside the recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right in line behind them. Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a 17MM stubby wrench. A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one. </div><div><br></div><div>Success! The entire cable assembly was in the dash,
union nut tight, thru the firewall,
and inserted into the choke block. While I was at it, I also replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs. </div><div><br></div><div>I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables moved very smoothly. The chokes actually snap back into the off position.</div><div><br></div><div>I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash. The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the tach hole. This union nut eliminates all the other ideas
of modified sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.</div><div><br></div><div>Fred</div><div>63 BJ7 deceased</div><div>66 BJ8 </div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>
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